Inspired by Donyale Luna and with direct references to Tom Ford.

When Peter Hawkings was announced as the new creative director of <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/tom-ford-final-collection-archives-fall-winter-2023-fashion" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Tom Ford</a> following Ford's retirement, the fashion world was excited but not surprised &mdash; after all, Hawkings was the most obvious choice. He has only ever worked under <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/film-tv/tom-ford-movies-nocturnal-animals-director-netflix" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Ford</a> since the beginning of his career, first while Ford was at <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/gucci-horsebit-loafer-70th-anniversary-exhibit-mens-spring-summer-2024-collection" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Gucci</a> before following him when he started his eponymous label. Now, Hawkings finds himself under the spotlight, presenting his debut collection at the helm of the brand.
The first word that comes to mind when looking at the presentation is "sexy." Not necessarily in the overt way of little to no clothing and excessive amounts of skin showing (though there were plenty of sheer dresses in the lineup). It was the silhouette, the impeccable fit of each garment that revealed Hawkings' mastery of dressing the female form.&nbsp;
Also present was Hawkings' strong background in menswear, with traditional masculine codes such as suiting and strong-shouldered blazers standing alongside garments with feminine touches. While sleek and sexy, there was also a high level of glamor &mdash; a signature of the Tom Ford brand. Be it the '70s-esque velvet suits (which is a direct reference to Ford-era Gucci), the gold colorway, or the glossy materiality, the collection was a continuation of the legacy Ford already built.
In an interview <a href="https://www.vogue.com/article/tom-ford-creative-director-peter-hawkings-interview" target="_blank" rel="noopener">with Vogue</a>, Hawkings also revealed that one of his inspirations was <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/donyale-luna-first-black-supermodel-documentary-fashion" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Donyale Luna</a>, the first Black supermodel who was best known during the '60s and '70s for her mystique and uncanny fluid body movements. In tune with the theme of '70s glamor and sex appeal, the designer captures the essence of Luna in the sultry cuts of the garments (though the black, long-sleeve, see-through dress was directly inspired by a crochet dress Luna wore in a 1967 photoshoot.)
It was a triumphant debut collection, filled with nostalgia and intriguing the fashion world on where he will lead Tom Ford next, and what unique vision he will bring to the brand.

Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024. Photo courtesy of Tom Ford.

Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2024.

All photos courtesy of Tom Ford.

Peter Hawkings Makes His Tom Ford Debut for Spring/Summer 2024

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Peter Hawkings Makes His Tom Ford Debut for Spring/Summer 2024

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