Shifting the pendulum from the maximalism and kitsch that was rampant during Alessandro Michele's era, Sabato de Sarno takes Gucci back to its essence of simplicity and chic Italian style.

If wasn't for the untimely rainy weather, <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/sabato-de-sarno-new-gucci-creative-director-fashion-designer-valentino" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sabato de Sarno</a>'s debut <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/gucci-horsebit-loafer-70th-anniversary-exhibit-mens-spring-summer-2024-collection" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Gucci</a>&nbsp;Spring/Summer 2024 show would've taken place outside, on the streets of Milan. One look at the collection and you can understand why &mdash; it's a line filled with such celebration and love for Italy, rampant with heritage <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/gucci-allegoria-high-jewelry-collection" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Gucci</a> codes, and what better way to usher in the House's new beginnings and ode to Italy than to be surrounded by one of it most fashion-forward cities.
Instead of a lively street catwalk, the show pivoted to taking place in the Gucci Hub, a darkened room with a dimly lit, square runway. And while the ambiance was a contrast to the original plan, the collection was no less celebratory.&nbsp;
From the first look consisting of a black blazer midi coat, white tank top, and black mini shorts, you could already see the difference from <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/alessandro-michele-gucci-creative-director-harry-styles-jared-leto" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Alessandro Michele-era Gucci</a>. The following looks of clean-cut suiting and pared-down, mini-length shift dresses solidified the initial reception: <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/gucci-cruise-2024-collection-seoul-south-korea" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Gucci</a> is going back to its core of sleek and simple, departing from the maximalism and kitschiness we have come to know under Michele's reign.
Titled &ldquo;Gucci Ancora&rdquo; &mdash; the latter term meaning "still" or "yet" in English &mdash; Sarno seeks to embrace the small joys in life and natural happy moments of humanity. He captures this by debuting a presentation that feels light and uncomplicated, garments fitting for the everyday.
"It&rsquo;s a story of joy, of life, of passion, of humanity, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamour, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words - words in artworks, words in pictures, words in spaces, just words," Sarno said per the show notes. "It&rsquo;s a story of movies, of my beloved Italy, of intellectuals and travels around the world but still feeling at home wherever you are. A story of objects - shiny, tactile and cold to the touch but warm to the heart and soul, these are desirable to collect, not for a museum but to enrich everyday life. It&rsquo;s a story of music and nights out, of sweat, dancing, and singing. It&rsquo;s a story of family, of kissing, lots and lots of kisses. It&rsquo;s a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy."
The element of simplicity is not to be confused with blandness, as there were plenty of touches of both sexiness and extravagance to be found: the incredibly short tap shorts; the deep V-necklines; the sequin embellished shift dresses; the crystallized bra tops; the semi-sheer tank tops.
So often debut collections lean heavily into heritage to the point there seemingly lacks a new vision being ushered forward. We saw it with <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion-week/helmut-lang-spring-summer-2024-nyfw-runway-images" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Peter Do's debut for Helmut Lang</a> and <a href="https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion-week/tom-ford-spring-summer-2024-milan-fashion-week-runway-images" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Peter Hawkings' debut for Tom Ford</a> (the latter of which had so many direct references it looked as if Ford designed it himself). This was not the case for Gucci. It wasn't a nostalgic presentation (though it was still very Gucci-coded, most similar to Tom Ford's era), but more of a refresh.
It was youthful, sleek, borderline minimal, and overtly modern. With a new foundation for Sarno to build on top of, he has triumphantly kept the fashion world fascinated with what to expect next.

Gucci Spring/Summer 2024.

All photos courtesy of Gucci.

Sabato de Sarno Brings Gucci Back to Its Roots for Spring/Summer 2024

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