Fashion

10 Must-Know French Designers Leaving Their Mark on Fashion

Meet the designers having an impact on fashion today, in Paris and beyond.

emerging french designers

After a brief slowdown of fashion’s frenetic pace during COVID, young designers are back in full force. In Paris, the city’s most influential creators are sharing their vision, shaped by their own experiences, a French attitude, and the current state of the world. Meet the 10 designers having an impact on fashion today, in Paris and beyond.

Alexandre Mattiussi, AMI

ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI, AMI

L’OFFICIEL: How is your work emblematic of our time?

ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI: Each era has a distinct style; as such, the AMI silhouettes—pragmatic but made of high-quality materials—fit perfectly into ours. I also create my collections according to the expectations of the time; people want to wear clothes they like and feel good in. 

L’O: In what way is Paris once again the center of fashion?

AM: Paris mon amour, Paris pour toujours! I’m not sure that Paris has lost its luster on the international fashion scene. However, for the past two years, post-COVID, I have the feeling that there is a new energy, a new dynamism, and a desire to celebrate French fashion together. More than anywhere else, Paris welcomes as it has always welcomed this creativity which is so unique to the city.

L’O: How would you define the French attitude?

AM: I think there is an innate sophistication in the approach that the French have in relation to fashion, which is what we’re known for abroad. In France, we have this taste for “effortlessness” linked to our lifestyles: having a coffee with a croissant, meeting for lunch, relaxing on the terrace with friends after work. Living a life imbued with pleasure influences the French attitude, and gives this relaxed but sexy side.

Marine Serre

MARINE SERRE

L’OFFICIEL: How would you define your work?

MARINE SERRE: If I have to define my work, I use the word “futurewear.” Some talk about ready-to-wear; we talk about futurewear.

L’O: What is your mantra?

MS: To be radical and courageous. I always try to go beyond the limits that the system imposes on us. It was the same with upcycling. Everyone told me it wasn’t going to work, but I said, “OK, but let’s try.” The thing is, if nobody tries to change the rules, everything will stay the same... In this industry, we tend to forget that.

L’O: What is your creative process?

MS: It is intrinsically linked to raw materials. I like to transform them into something new while respecting the craftsmanship and the work that has been done previously—changing the way we look at discarded products and restoring value to them.

L’O: What is creating for you?

MS: I don’t believe in creativity for creativity’s sake. I want to give meaning to what I do, explore the boundaries of fashion, combine it with other arts, and put imagination at the service of transformation.

Guillaume Henry, Patou

Guillaume Henry, Patou

L’OFFICIEL: How is your work emblematic of our time?

GUILLAUME HENRY: I’m more of a ready-to-wear designer than a women’s ready-to-wear designer, as we used to say. The notion of gender has changed, and this is reflected in Patou. Our responsible approach guides our work—we’re willing to do less and better, using eco-responsible, organic, and recycled materials. We only show what we sell, and we only sell what we show.

L’O: In what way is Paris once again the center of fashion?

GH: After Covid, there was this desire to have fun and be together, which hasn’t happened for a long time. Being a designer today in a fashion system which has never been so competitive is being asked to make a difference. Doing my first runway show with Patou last July demonstrated that I did not want to return to the usual fashion schedule. We wanted to do a show à la Patou. It was therefore essentially our friends who walked the runway. We called on Maison Ernest to put on our models, and we organized the show at home in our workshop. Fashion is more than ever at the convergence of music, art, cinema, Netflix, politics... So why Paris? Because Paris offers real creativity and discourse in its fashion week.

L’O: How would you define the French attitude?

GH: I prefer to talk about the French touch which, for me, evokes the notion of savoir-faire. This doesn’t mean that we know better than others, but I like this idea of craftsmanship and workshops. There is an attention to detail and form.

Ludovic De Saint Sernin

LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN

L’OFFICIEL: How does your work reflect our times?

LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN: Today, fashion is so much more than just creating clothes. I think what makes my work unique is that I look at my collections like a diary—each one is a testament to my experiences, my dreams, nostalgia, and the future. My first collection told about my coming out and how I learned to discover my identity. Another was about my breakup with my ex, and my latest collection is a commentary on the designer's role in fashion today, and how their image becomes as important as the images they create for their brand. I create fashion that speaks with sensitivity and sensuality to those who identify with our values, and I have surrounded myself with a proud and talented community who love to play with fashion and wear it naturally.

L’O: In what way is Paris once again the center of fashion?

LSS: I think Paris was, is, and always will be the capital of fashion. No other city in the world brings together as much talent and craftsmanship as Paris. What particularly touches me today is the solidarity that the new generation of designers has created. We are all friends, we support each other, we go to each other’s shows, and above all, there is room for everyone. That is quite unique, because when I studied fashion at school, or even when I was in other design studios, there was fierce competition. Today, it seems to me that this competition no longer exists and that we are all aware that the most important thing is to be able to evolve in an honest, healthy, and benevolent creative environment.

Nicolas De Felice, Courrèges

NICOLAS DE FELICE, COURRÈGES

L’OFFICIEL: How did you discover fashion?

NICOLAS DI FELICE: I come from a small village near Charleroi, Belgium. When I was young, I didn’t know there was a fashion industry; I was more interested in the looks of musicians. It's a horizon that seemed to open up for me in the Black Country, as this part of Belgium is called, because of the thin layer of dark dust that the wind blows from the slag heaps.

L’O: What inspires you?

NDF: It is the genius and romanticism of André Courrèges, who took a leap into the unknown with his brand. It has always been said that Courrèges is optimistic and lively, so the whole approach must be dynamic. I never copy archives; I try to do something that invokes the same feeling but using today's techniques and materials.

Charles De Vilmorin

CHARLES DE VILMORIN

L’OFFICIEL: How is your work emblematic of our time?

CHARLES DE VILMORIN: I think we are in a time where we need freedom, and not to lock ourselves into boxes. My clothes are not intended for a particular type of person; I want everyone to be able to wear my creations according to their personality and desire. The values that I defend through my work are the richness of diversity and freedom.

L’O: In what way is Paris once again the center of fashion?

CDV: There is a whole generation of creators who are influencing the big houses. Paris has always been the capital of fashion, but she is regaining her panache and her audacity. She is taking risks.

L’O: How would you define the French attitude?

CDV: It’s a certain form of carelessness and offbeat elegance.

Antonin Tron, Atlein

ANTONIN TRON, ATLEIN

L’OFFICIEL: How is your work emblematic of our time?

ANTONIN TRON: It is a strong and sensual feminine aesthetic combined with a deep commitment to finding solutions to combat the environmental damage caused by the overproduction of clothing. We mainly use recycled materials and have developed innovative textiles. The name Atlein refers to the Atlantic Ocean—its power and movement—and this is reflected in our garments.

L’O: In what way is Paris once again the center of fashion?

AT: Paris is experiencing an intense creative moment, with a rich underground life as well as many new brands with strong points of view.

L’O: What is the French touch?

AT: Multicultural influences and the precision of design signatures.

Nix Lecourt Mansion

Nix Lecourt Mansion

L’OFFICIEL: How does your work reflect our times?

NIX LECOURT MANSION: I think I am inspired by the people of today and the artists around me. This is what makes the specificity and the modernity of my work—my main inspirations have only recently existed, and make the present inspiring.

L’O: In what way is Paris once again the center of fashion?

NLM: I think Paris in recent years has seen a wave of novelty that has refreshed all aspects of fashion. Whether it’s creators, publishers, agents, or magazines, a whole new energy is being felt. It’s good to see the ecosystem moving, and I hope that the good post-pandemic lessons will stick around!

L’O: How would you define the French attitude?

NLM: I can only give a very personal interpretation—as a French woman, I think it’s boldness and political incorrectness.

Simon Porte Jacquemus

jacquemus collage

L'OFFICIEL: Tell us about the beginnings of your brand.

SIMON PORTE JACQUEMUS: When I launched my brand, I preferred to think of a general idea, a story, or a story with a title, like  Jean-Luc Godard with his film Le Mépris. It’s very French to tell a story and to stay close to very real characters. I have had an obsession with women since my youth, but the beginning of my brand was linked to one woman in particular: my mother, who kept her maiden name, Jacquemus, and who is at the heart of my brand.

L’O: What is your creative process like?

SPJ: When I was younger, I dreamed of being a great designer Today I just want to do things in a beautiful and simple way; to be aware of what is happening around me while remaining faithful and close to my clients. This is my greatest goal and also my greatest satisfaction. I design my collections from A to Z, from a simple belt to a complex dress or coat. I am behind everything, sincerely and honestly. This is what makes me happy in life.

Christelle Kocher, Koché

Koché

L’OFFICIEL: How does your work reflect our times?

CHRISTELLE KOCHER: I don’t have a cynical view on fashion; I believe in the beauty of what we do. I love this scene in The Misfits where Marilyn Monroe jumps in and out of a house while laughing and dancing. I feel like that—one foot outside, one foot inside, with an immense joy in doing my job.

L’O: In what way is Paris once again the center of fashion?

CK: I don’t think anyone agrees on what fashion is in Paris, and that’s why it’s cool, diverse, and innovative. Fashion doesn’t have to be one thing, and you can’t find a better example than Paris to express that. Look at the designers, the number of shows, the Haute Couture, the luxury brands—the vibes are so different. And then the art and music scene, the clubs, and the dining scene...all of this makes Paris unique and makes Paris the city of fashion by definition. It embodies a mix of history and modernity. Paris is the city of stories, of the quest for beauty, guided by voices, and these voices are shouting loudly these days.

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