Hedi Slimane's Reimagines Indie Sleaze For Celine Homme Spring/Summer 2024

Following the cancellation of the Celine Homme Spring/Summer 2024 fashion show at la Gaîté Lyrique in Paris in July 2023, Hedi Slimane decided to present his latest men's collection by shooting a film the same month between Paris and Monaco. And in the atmospheres of la Gaîté Lyrique, le Grand Rex, and the Opera Garnier in Monte Carlo—with the special participation of classical dancer Laurids Seidel—the French creative director presents his new men's collection inspired by the New York art scene.

In the past, Slimane has curated art exhibitions such as Sweet Bird of Youth (2007), at Arndt & Partner in Berlin and Young American at the Foam Fotografiemuseum in Amsterdam with black and white portraits of artists who embodied the New York art scene like Dash Snow, Slater Bradley, Mathew Cerletty, Dan Colen, Gardar Eide Einarsson, Terence Koh, Douglas Kolk, Nate Lowman, Ryan Mcginley, Matt Saunders, Steven Shearer, Paul P., and Banks Violette.

While Slimane has always been the king of Indie Sleaze, this collection shifts away from West Coast rock'n'roll motifs and toward more East Coast sportswear with tracksuit-coded leather jackets and more Transatlantic styles reminiscent of New York's European transplant. And yet, Slimane never loses that French edge. Backed by tracks from LCD Soundsystem's debut album, the Celine Homme Spring/Summer 2024 collection parades masculine interpretations of couture bustiers, tops made up of satin bows inspired by the ceremonial costumes of Pierre Mignard's 17th-century paintings, satin bands, capes studded with Swarovski crystals, and impeccable suits worn on shirts with "5" collars (named after the five-centimeter size) and very sharp ties. From Slimane's legacy, the shiny effects of the early 2000s are on full display—the low-waisted trousers, stuccoed lambskin jeans, and an overall elongated silhouette with a 5 heel. True to form and true to him, Slimane's love letter to NYC is also a token of understanding for today's Y2K-obsessed Gen Z and an homage to the youth of yesterday.