Between Architecture and Fluidity for Prada Men's Spring/Summer 2024
The creative duo formed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons stages a show that decodes the sartorial disciplines, giving free rein to an architectural and fluid vision of masculinity.
Once again the watchword is to simplify. Freeing the body, making movements light, and playing with tailoring to arrive in another dimension. Prada Men's Spring/Summer 2024 collection designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons called "Fluid Form" starts from the key pieces of the male wardrobe, first of all: the white shirt. The structure and details of the shirt give life to a pattern capable of transforming an entire wardrobe: from suits to raincoats, from technical clothing to blazers and jackets. Rock music based on Nine Inch Nails with the song "Closer" gives reference to wanting to get closer to the free-moving body, seeming like a sensible alliteration. The "slime" dripping from the ceiling echoes this fluctuation and tightens in the center, just as the jackets are screwed to the body.
Starting from the cleanliness of the shapes, the collection oscillates between minimal silhouettes and materiality, given by the construction of the garments as much as by the details: floral applications, headbands and glasses, made starting from a single mold, appear as distortions in movement. The padded bags are ultra-soft and the square shoes appear almost cut with an ax on the toes.
The shirts with deep V necklines are reimbursed in the shorts, giving the illusion of a work suit — a garment that Simons has already accustomed us to appreciate. In addition to the bouquet applications, a series of shirts are fringed and decorated with colorful motifs, in stark contrast to the optical white of the location. Prada's formal style met technical elements in the debut of utility vests, while reporter jackets and raincoats added a retro-futuristic touch to a collection whose goal is to stimulate individuality of thought.