What JW Anderson's Fall/Winter 2021 Collection Says about Fashion's Future
For many people across the planet, the pandemic has been a wake-up call—the evidence that a “new normal” would only be possible if we are all, on an individual scale, involved in it. With his past shows "in a box," "on the wall,” or even “in a book," Jonathan Anderson is a master in terms of semi-tangible, semi-digital presentation that he is using to share his thoughts on fashion's place in the new world.
Somewhere between the collector's item and participatory performance, this presentation format sets him apart even more in an industry saturated with ephemeral events and time-limited images. Presented in the form of 19 posters, the JW Anderson Fall/Winter 2021 collection brings together the visions of three artists: ceramicist Magdalene Odundo, American artist Shawanda Corbett, and photographer Juergen Teller. Through this multidisciplinary approach, the British designer delivers “one of his most personal projects” to date. L'OFFICIEL lists 3 notions that this new part in the history of the JW Anderson label reveals about the future of fashion and fashion shows.
A Return to Basics
Reacting to a world saturated with images, Jonathan Anderson positions his approach in the opposite direction: "At the moment, I find it difficult to digest long collections. I rather want precision, to summarize the things to the beauty, the silhouette, and the attitude. The idea was to slow down the process, to move towards a kind of roundness, fluidity."
Entrusting the visual presentation to Teller, renowned for his unfiltered photographic style, the end product couldn't better match Anderson's straightforward, no-frills approach this season. The designer notes, "Working with Juergen allowed the focus to be on archetypes—instead of overloading the collection, we directed it towards one and the same idea, explored in a precise way. Since it was going to be presented in the form of static images, the message had to be as direct as possible."
The result? A collection of 19 radical silhouettes, in dialogue with the body, whose materials and construction techniques explore the notions of movement and sculpture. Not to mention a "collaboration blanket" consisting of a series of covers reflecting the works of Odundo and Corbett.
An Interdisciplinary Approach
“As we enter a new era of fashion, I think this project is one of the most personal that I have done,” says Anderson. “It is also the longest in terms of development, techniques, and because it required the participation of artists. It opened up a new creative playground for me as fashion reinvents itself, a chance to wonder how I envisioned its future—I think it's essential that fashion revolves around this idea of collaboration."
He continues, "Fashion should not be a linear process, but rather material to be cut up, fragmented. Being able to collaborate with such an incredible team made it possible to determine a new pace of work adapted to our own pace. I believe that it is necessary to break free from the traditional format of fashion weeks, which has obviously become obsolete. I think we might have to present a collection, an approach, as soon as we feel ready. "
An Innovative Format
"I am surprised that people ask me when do I plan a return to the physical show. It's really not the current subject," says the astonished creator, who has undeniably been able to appropriate this new semi-concrete, semi-virtual formot imposed by health measures. Accompanied by an explanatory video interview, the presentation takes on the air of a rich and ultra-readable artistic performance accessible to all—a real open window into the world of Jonathan Anderson, his influences, and his curiosities. It's proof that it is possible, in this complex period, to convey a strong message where art, know-how, and emotion guide fashion towards new playgrounds.
