Fashion Week

Alexander McQueen Holds 'First Sight' Show in London

Creative director Sarah Burton presents the brand's Spring/Summer 2023 collection in London.

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Overlooking the bank of the Thames, on the frame of the gardens of the Old Royal Naval College stands the transparent inflatable structure of the Chilean architect Smiljan Radic, a volumetric cloud previously used as an ephemeral apparatus and setting for the Spring/Summer 2022 fashion show. with London, Sarah Burton presents the new women's Spring/Summer 2023 show. "This collection is about searching for humanity and human connection. The eye is a symbol of that humanity, a register of emotion, an expression of uniqueness," Burton explains in a press release. "Our clothes are designed to empower. They are stripped back, dissected and focused on cut, drape and silhouette. We also looked at the work of Hieronymus Bosch, at once dark and beautiful.”

Alexander McQueen's "First Sight" show opens with an asymmetrical black look with an eye printed on the front. In the collection, there's a structured use of denim, sensual leather, tailored wool, a few sprays of tulle, and a shower of sequins like the cut-out catsuit worn by Naomi Campbell.  The colorful patterns inspired by the Flemish painter's creative practice represent religious subjects, animals, and floral motifs. And, of course, there's a tribute to Lee McQueen with the return of the "bumsters" pants because as the founder said, "For me, that part of the body - not so much the buttocks, but the lower part of the spine - is the most erotic part of the body of anyone, man or woman."

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