Azelaic Acid is Skincare's Newest Lifesaver

If you haven't heard of azelaic acid, this powerful ingredient has become a recent favorite of skincare lovers for its versatility and stunning results. Having been used in dermatology for decades, the component more relevant than ever because it's one of the safest acids—so much so that, in fact, according to Dr. Juliana Jordão, it's, for example, one of the only safe acids to use during pregnancy.

For pregnant women, azelaic acid is the safest way to maintain some type of anti-aging care, get rid of spots, or treat rosacea or melasma. Because it has so many benefits, the ingredient has already become one of the biggest trends in the industry. For more insight into how azelaic acid works, L'OFFICIEL spoke with Dr. Juliana Jordão and Dr. Fernanda Sanchez to get all the important info on this popular skincare trend.

“It promotes a light exfoliation of the skin, due to the epidermal renewal it generates. That's why it's also useful for treatment against oiliness and reduction of blackheads and even has a drying effect on acne,” reveals Dr. Jordão. "Because it acts on an enzyme called the tyrosinase enzyme, it also has a mild depigmenting effect."

In addition, according to Dr. Sanchez, "it's well-regarded in relation to patients who have inflammatory processes," which also explains why it's a good ingredient to treat patients with rosacea and melasma.

Another benefit of azelaic acid, according to Dr. Sanchez, is that it's not photosensitive, so it's no impacted by the sun.

According to Dr. Jordão, the acid can be used in any case of acne, melasma, or rosacea, but as it is a mild acid, it's not an option for those with more severe cases.

According to Dr. Sanchez, it's also useful for patients who wish to lighten spots but have sensitive skin.

“It could be used on other types of skin, even on sensitive skin, on alternate nights as long as it does not cause too much redness and burning,” reveals Dr. Jordão.

On the other hand, Dr. Sanchez reveals that the acid “can also be used in the morning and at night. Just remember to use sunscreen on top during the day."

According to Dr. Jordão, not every patient tolerates the treatment. "Pinching is normal when applying, but not all patients tolerate it. Some have very reddish skin, so it's not unanimous." Dr. Sanchez, however, believes that there are some ways to resolve this issue.

“For those who don't tolerate the pinching, wait about 10 minutes after washing before applying. If you even put a barrier strengthening cream, like skin barrier strengthening moisturizing serums, they make the skin more resistant to the active ingredient that will then enter. They moisturize with the serum and the hydrated skin will better tolerate the acid," reveals the expert.

The doctor continues, “Another option also, there are patients with whom we can even manipulate azelaic acid with glycine, called azeloglycine. It has the property of azelaic acid without giving that discomfort. It can be done through the manipulation associated with the glycine molecule, so the tolerance also increases."

Another issue is that, because it is such a mild ingredient, according to Dr. Sanchez, it's not a monotherapy, and should be used in combination with other actives.