Skirts, Neons, and Suits: Milan Fashion Week Men's Fall/Winter 2022
See what designers presented as the Italian fashion capital took center stage.
Just as the dust settles on 2021, the fashion world is setting the trends for 2022. On January 14, Milan kicked off its Men's Fall/Winter 2022 Fashion Week. Like the shows of 2021, fashion week is seeing a mix of in-person and online presentations. Certain designers, such as JW Anderson and Emporio Armani, are opting to keep their audience online, while other designers, such as Prada, are returning to in-person runways. Here, catch the highlights from the week.
Etro
While still incorporating its signature bold and recognizable prints, Etro toned it down slightly for the Fall/Winter 2022 menswear show in favor of exploring further with shapes and sillouhettes. Oversized suits and knitwear prevailed down the runway in Creative Director Kean Etro's nod to current trends and a desire to appeal to a younger audience. Monochromatic elements weaved in with the brand's classic and dynamic prints, creating an aesthetic shift that still maintains the originality of the house.
JW Anderson
As one of the only designers to host an online show for Milan fashion week, JW Anderson's Fall/Winter 2022 collection did not disappoint. For this collection, Anderson threw away the confines of gender norms when it comes to clothing, and made a collection that is gender neutral. Anderson takes typically female silhouettes and styles of clothing, from dresses, to crop tops and low waisted jeans, and transforms them in a way to accentuate the features of anyone who chooses to wear them. An interesting part of this collection is the swooping, almost hoop like, cut of some of the cropped tops and dresses. Anderson plays around with shape a lot in this collection by creating chain linked features on tops, or by giving a mini skirt a ruffled edge. While the most prominent color in this colleciton is black, Anderson incorporated different neons and metallics to give a pop of unexpected color.
Prada
Prada showed its Men's Fall/Winter 2022 collection on the third day of Milan Fashion Week. Actor Kyle MacLachlan, best known for his role as Dale in Twin Peaks, opened the show. For this collection, Prada honed in on sophistication with a variety of suits and trench coat silhouettes. However, the brand didn't stick to the typical color and fabric range. Some coats sported a fur trim along the bottom hem and around the middle of the arm. Prada used neons for a selection of its trousers, gloves, and knitwear, but added a touch of deep red, navy, black, and grey to adhere to the traditional color palette. For certain items, such as pants and jackets, Prada used neon and navy nylon, a fabric it is known for manipulating perfectly. To end the show, Jeff Goldblum strutted down the catwalk in a black fur-lined trench coat.
Tod's
With wool-lined coats and collars, corduroy slacks, and every shade of brown in the color wheel, Walter Chiapponi is combining a '70s flare with the modern age for Tod's Fall/Winter 2022 men's collection. Chiapponi stuck to a very minimal color palette of just brown, grey, emerald green, white, black, and blue. He mixed big Norwegian inspired knits with blue denim to give a European feel to an Americana look. Pairing driving mocassins and loafers with brown trousers and perfectly cut brown suede jackets with fur collars and a pair of square framed sunglasses, Chiapponi gave 2022 a '70s makeover. For a more comfortable, yet classy look, Chiapponi created carpenter style tracksuit pants to give a bit of flare for a lounging outfit.
Philipp Plein
Philipp Plein debuted his "LIL MONSTER$” at his Porta Romana show. These old video game looking characters are apart of Plein's new vision for his brand. Announcing that he will be at Art Basel in Miami in December of this year, this collection is a preview of what Plein will show at the art show and showcase in his stores across the world. For this collection, Plein played into the video game aesthetic by creating garments fit for any video game character. His "LIL MONSTER$" were the feature print, and were sported on sweatshirts, coats, hoodies and varsity jackets. Plein focused on a primarly neutral color palette, but included shades of blue, green, purple, red, and yellow to match his "LIL MONSTER$." This collection has a very streetwear look and feel, but can be dressed up for a more classy look.
Fendi
For this collection, Fendi played with feminine silhouttes to create men's looks. From tighter fitting trousers to cutouts underneath the neck of knitted sweaters that end just above the center of the chest, to flowy, lowcut blazers and matching skirts, Fendi created looks that step away from the traditional masculine look. For her collection, Silvia Venturini Fendi wanted to bring elements from an older time and bring it into her new "roaring twenties" vision. Similar to the fashion of the 1920s, Fendi's collection features a variety of different furs, houndstooth, and checked prints. This collection highlights a variety of Fendi monogrammed pieces, as well as chain detailing and chain printed pieces. It brings older suit sihlouettes into a modern era by making a suit jacket cropped or giving a dress shirt a more boxy and less tailored shape. Viewers can defiently pick up on the 1920s influence of the collection, but are in full acknowledgement on the androgonyous look of the new roaring twenties.
Brunello Cucinelli
For this collection, Brunello Cucinelli created looks for a sophisticated, rugged man. Cucinelli's view for this collection was to explore the constantly changing urban world we find ourselves in, and it does just that. From corduroy suit jackets that can withstand a bit of rough play, to formal suit jackets paired with a dress shirts and jeans for a casual Friday look, to full three piece suits that are perfect for a business meeting, to classy tracksuits and puffer coats that'll keep you warm while travelling, this collection is sure to provide any man with stylish looks for all of their day to day needs.
DSquared2
For the brand's first physical show, DSquared2 mixed a variety of patterns and colors to make hiking outfits high fashion. Following the trend of other brands, DSquared2 designed not only puffer coats for its Fall/Winter collection, but puffer shorts as well. This collection featured a variety of tartan fabrics, fixed with different camouflage prints to give a camping collection that is very camp. To fit the camping theme, the collection featured different types of sherpa lined coats, along with scarf-like parkas, heavy knit jumpers, and tactical bags.