The History of Women's Movement Fashion
L'OFFICIEL looks back at the intersection between fashion and feminism throughout history.
Throughout history, there has been an undeniable link between feminism and fashion. As we moved through the women’s movement, women's style evolved. Garments and colors became symbols of the movement and women traded in restrictive clothing for functional pieces. As women started seeking liberation in their lives, they also began to seek it in their dress. L’OFFICIEL is looking back at the women’s movement and the role that fashion has played in feminism.
First Wave
Prior to the 1800s, women wore restrictive corsets with heavy boning and tight lacing. However, feminist Amelia Bloomer sought to change women’s fashion with the invention of the ‘bloomers.’ Known as the first female trousers, the garment was quickly adopted by feminists who sought independence in their lives and in their closets. As bloomers became a symbol of the feminist movement, they were met with many negative reactions. The narrative began to focus on the controversial fashion piece rather than the mission of the women themselves. Because of this, bloomers were retired and traded back in for traditional female dress.
During the Industrial Revolution, women had been encouraged to work in factories but by the 1840s, they were forced back into their homes. In the mid-1800s, women wore bulky, heavy dresses that were difficult to take on and off. But as we reached the 1900s, women joined the workforce as secretaries and began to participate in sports, making these dresses no longer feasible. Matching suits were worn for cycling and horseback riding and they trickled into the movement, becoming typical attire for women’s matches.
Throughout this time, certain colors also began to symbolize the women’s movement. Suffragettes utilized white, purple, and green as the colors of the movement. White symbolized purity and femininity while purple and green represented loyalty and dignity. As the idea that feminists were masculine and unappealing gained traction, these colors and their message became all the more important for the suffragette movement.
In the 1910s, trousers were integrated into female wardrobes in a more definite way as Paul Pioiret’s Middle Eastern Harem-Inspired Trousers were brought to the west. This was the very beginning of the rise of the "new woman" which became popularized in the 1920s. These women cut their hair into short bobs and wore less restrictive dresses that ended just below the knees. Coco Chanel also introduced a sportier female look during this time, which was further developed in World War II when women entered the workforce.
Second Wave
As the war effort ended in 1945, women were sent back into their domestic roles and stripped of the independence they had gained during WWII. Ultra-feminine fashion came back in style with zipper-backed dressing and form-fitting shapewear. This feminine fashion became an enemy of the movement at the time and red lips and heels became symbols of oppression.
However, once we reached the 1960s and ’70s feminine dress took a turn. Mary Quant invented the mini skirt which became a symbol of the sexual revolution sparked by the advent of the contraceptive pill. Women now had variety in their wardrobe with both mini skirts and trousers. These pieces challenged socially acceptable female dress and were reflective of women’s new identity as they moved past domestic roles.
In the 1970s and ’80s, power dressing became popular with women joining the workforce. The new style gave women a more masculine and professional look made up of matching skirts and jackets with padded shoulders. During this time, there was also a divide between feminine and masculine dressing. Some feminists believed that clothing such as pantyhose betrayed the movement, while others saw embracing feminine dress as furthering liberation. These two ideologies were blended with Diane Von Furstenberg’s 1974 wrap dress which was tied at the waist, making it easy to slip on and off.
Third Wave
Third-wave feminine dressing deviates from prior movements. Women can be feminists and embrace feminine ways of dress and beauty or choose not to participate in feminine styles at all. Women can decide for themselves which pieces make them feel best and there is less debate over what women should be wearing. Just as in the movement itself, feminist fashion champions the idea of choice.
