This Winter's Hottest Headwear: The Balaclava
In an unexpected twist, this modest utility piece has entered the realm of high fashion hats.
If you're plugged into the fashion-sphere on social media, you've seen at least one of these by now, the head-swallowing hats everyone seems to be buying up in bulk. The garment is called a "balaclava," and its name dates all the way back to the Battle of Balaclava during the Crimean War of 1854, during which soldiers wore the hats to stay warm amidst the unforvgiving conditions.
These days, they are more style than function, often coming in knits or nylons. Since they started showing up on the craftcore scene, where everything is either genuine homemade craft or made to look that way, brands have been hopping on the trend left and right. Already, Marine Serre has put out a version in its trademark moon pattern, and the style featured prominently in Miu Miu's Fall/Winter 2021 collection. Givenchy also has a knit balaclava with horns retailing for just under $500.
Fashion analysts seem divided on the origin of the balaclava's revival. Some credit Kim Kardashian and her head-to-toe black Met Gala look. Others credit TikTok teens, who seem to be the fashion authorities these days. Other still are looking to the more general trend of vintage mid-century resurgences. Regardless of its genesis, there is no doubt that come snowfall this winter, the streets of every cold-weather city will be littered with balaclavas.
The headwraps traditionally come in a number of styles: exposing just the eyes, exposing the eyes and mouth like a bank robber's ski mask, or exposing the entire face and sitting snugly around the ears. The current trend seems to favor the latter option, though plenty of modern balaclavas also cover the mouth and nose in a way that is strikingly familiar given the last year of surgical masks.
Though high fashion brands, and even their fast fashion counterparts, are making balaclavas aplenty, the trend truly shines in the craft circuit. Indpendent creators, whether they sell on Etsy or Depop, have taken the balaclava to its furthest extremes, pushing the garment out of its functional comfort zone and into the realm of wearable art.
The hats can be found with bunny ears, cat ears, devil horns, patchwork faces, or alien-like spikes. Alongside delightful and comfortable winter knitwear are pieces that only the most daring fashionistas would ever put on.
One explanation for the rise of the balaclava seems remarkably under-discussed. Perhaps we've all just gotten used to covering our faces? The balaclava, with its hypermodest approach, gives back a bit of the anonymity we've become accustomed to over the past year. As mask restrictions loosen, going back to an entirely bare face feels almost unnatural. Has our greatest inconvenience, and ultimate symbol of disaster, become a comfort to us? Are we ready to be bold faced once again? The balaclava may offer a transition back into total exposure, and an opportunity to turn our masks into an artistic liberation.
