Eternal Treasures: New Icons From Tiffany & Co. Meet Their Archival Counterparts

PHOTOGRAPHY: Adam Friedlander

STLYING: Yolande Gagnier

Founded by Charles Lewis Tiffany and John B. Young in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has crafted custom floral White House China (at the behest of Lady Bird Johnson, in 1968); helped redesign the one-dollar bill, in 1885; and produced World Series and Super Bowl trophies. Fancy goods indeed. Its recently renovated Fifth Avenue flagship, The Landmark, played a vital role in Truman Capote’s 1958 novella, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, and in the subsequent 1961 film interpretation starring Audrey Hepburn; and even style-agnostic sorts are at least vaguely acquainted with Tiffany Blue, the turquoise hue that, first introduced via the company’s 1845 catalog (aptly titled Blue Book), famously tints the brand’s boxes, boutiques, and beyond. And, though often outshined by all of the above, there’s still stationery.

But for all Tiffany & Co.’s lofty contributions to pop culture and American culture, it is timeless, ineffable jewelry that comprises its core. Over the decades, Tiffany’s jewelry has adorned the wrists, fingers, and decolletage of celebrities, high-society types, and first ladies alike. In fact, in 1861, President Abraham Lincoln gave his wife, Mary Todd Lincoln, a suite of Tiffany pearls. Untouchably extravagant wow pieces have long helped generate buzz and allure—think the 128-carat yellow-diamond necklace which, first worn by socialite Mary Whitehouse in 1957, later hung from the necks of Hepburn in 1961; Lady Gaga in 2019; and Beyoncé, for Tiffany & Co.’s 2021 campaign.

But enduring, heirloom-worthy house classics—some inset with dazzling jewels, others artfully rendered in sturdy metals—are how most loyal Tiffany & Co. devotees engage with the brand. Among Tiffany’s signatures are its T, HardWear, Knot, and Lock collections, each of which is instantlyrecognizable and imbued with significance. Here, we offer a glimpse of four archival Tiffany designs, and reveal the modern marvels they’ve inspired.

Debuting in 1975, the 14-karat yellow-gold Tiffany & Co. T bangle marks one of the first times a high-jewelry house so boldly incorporated its monogram into a design. The T motif isn’t merely decorative: it serves as the fastening clasp. Equal parts elegant and audacious, the bangles boasted sharp, deliberate lines that echo New York’s skyscrapers. Introduced in 2014, the contemporary Tiffany T collection is more understated than its predecessor, but no less covetable. These pieces, in yellow gold and delectable diamonds, are slimmer than the 1975 bangles, but their Ts, while notably tinier, exhibit the same resolute lines and unignorable presence as the head-turning originals. They’re unmistakably New York, and unmistakably Tiffany.

In 1883, one enamored husband had Tiffany & Co. create this gold-and-steel padlock-and-key brooch for his beloved as a Christmas present. The lock was reportedly intended to represent the protection of their love. The piece came engraved with the Latin phrase Fide et amore, which translates as With faith and love. The modern Lock by Tiffany assortment, which includes refined rings, bangles, pendants, and earrings, imbues the intended sentiment of the 1883 brooch into sleek designs. Seen here in white and yellow gold and dappled with diamonds, these interpretive iterations open and close just as a padlock would—with considerably more sparkle.

The 18-karat gold Ball and Chain bracelet was designed by Donald Claflin in 1971. With a diamond-encrusted padlock, sturdy chain links, and a hardy gold ball bearing the Tiffany & Co. logo, the bracelet appeared in an advertisement alongside the phrase "For maximum security." Inspired by the steadfast links in that original Ball and Chain bracelet, today’s HardWear collection is meant to reflect resilience, freedom, and a love that cannot be broken. Rendered in yellow gold, the robust range comprises earrings, necklaces, rings, and bracelets that celebrate the form and structure of said signature links—many of which come inset with a dusting of brilliant pavé diamonds. And purists won’t be disappointed—an ever-so-slightly updated take on Claflin’s 1971 design is incorporated among the offerings.

Crafted in 1889, this exquisite gold-and-diamond knot bracelet encapsulates the charm and elegance of its era. At once romantic and whimsical, it symbolizes the ties that bind without suggesting its wearer is tied down, so to speak. A feat of craftsmanship, it is a wearable embodiment of the soft, sparkly flutter of love, wrapped in a ribbon of history. A refined expression of affection, the Knot Collection of bracelets, rings, necklaces, and earrings suggests enduring love with strands of gold and diamonds that delicately intertwine.

PRODUCED BY: Chance Jarvis

PHOTO ASSISTANT: Josh McCaghren

STYLING ASSISTANT: Yani Monzon