The Polarizing Appeal of Margiela Tabi Boots
You either love Tabis or you hate them. Hardly any other shoe is as controversial and triggers as many emotions as the toe shoe. But still: It has become a must-have for all fashion nerds.
Martin Margiela is considered one of the most influential designers of his time. He is known for rethinking what already exists and thereby creating something new. Especially in his early days, he often deconstructed vintage pieces and, with a few personal tricks and innovative ideas, created a piece that had never existed before. Pieces like the sock sweater (a sweater made of military socks) or the gloves top (made of gloves sewn together) are just a few examples of this. Furthermore, Maison Margiela stands for Tabis: the toe shoes have accompanied the brand since the first collection.
Japanese origin
The designer did not in any way invent toe shoes but rather redesigned them. Its origins lie in Japan in the 15th century. The Tabi socks were combined with geta or zori shoes: Japanese wooden sandals with a strap between the toes. To this day, the shoes, as well as Tabi socks and kimonos, are part of the traditional clothing and are still worn especially for ceremonial purposes.
Initially, the cotton socks were only worn by the nobility for material reasons and later the color marked the social class. Mostly in white, but also purple and gold for the upper class and navy blue for the lower class. In the 1900s, the tabi became more than just a two-part sock that protected the feet from dirt and cold and became a shoe of the same shape with a rubber sole: the jika-tabi. It is considered a worker's shoe and is worn by craftsmen, street workers, etc., and still accompanies many Japanese people through everyday life to this day.
Margiela's own twist
A trip to Japan inspired Margiela. He had just left Jean Paul Gaultier and was in the process of starting his own brand. Since he is a fan of Japanese fashion, he then looked for inspiration for a unique shoe for his collection. There he discovered the Tabi silhouette on the streets of Japan. Just as Margiela creates something new from existing things, he did the same here: He took the silhouette and put it on a chunky heel so that it should look like socks lying on a heel.
“I wanted to create an 'invisible' shoe, the illusion of a bare foot walking on a high, chunky heel,” -Martin Margiela
What makes the shoes so special?
The opinion around Tabis remains divided: Some consider Tabi shoes to be very ugly, while others love their unique character. At best, they are shoes where you have to have an opinion - there is no other way. This comes from a general fascination with a la Uncanny Valley, a term more familiar to robotics or animation.
He describes the uncomfortable feeling that a representation of something triggers in us when it is too close to reality. Exactly the same effect occurs with the Tabi boots: at first glance, they look like classic ankle boots, and only upon closer inspection do you notice that there is a gap in the toe area. In addition, the appearance is very reminiscent of that of hooves - so it just looks strange to us. In addition, the shoes almost force you to feel - whether they trigger a good or bad emotion doesn't matter. The goal is discomfort. And that's precisely why the shoe shows how the unknown and strange can be beautiful because it's not just about a purely aesthetic perception, but about the feeling.
It's impossible to imagine life without it
The Tabi boots have accompanied Margiela since his debut Spring 1989 collection. At that time they were only available in black and in order to bring them to the fore and show their uniqueness, the models dipped their feet in red paint before the catwalk and left it like a trace in the shape of the sole behind it.
“I thought the audience should notice the new footwear,” … “And what would be more evident than its footprint?” -Martin Margiela
In subsequent shows he showed the same boots again, repainting the ones that didn't sell to save money and giving them a new life. Margiela continued to present the shoes in the following collections and Tabis slowly but surely became a trademark of Margiela. Today they are available in many versions: boots, ballerinas, sneakers, loafers, knee boots, and topless versions (only the sole), in addition to being available for all genders.
“After several collections, people started asking for [the Tabi],” ... “And they wanted more … and they didn't stop asking, thank God.” - Martin Margiela
A shoe for connoisseurs
Because the shoe is so special, the silhouette was popular outside of the mainstream. Just like: If you know you know. The avant-garde look was more of a status symbol for alternative, fashion-loving people who wanted to stand out from the crowd. Today, Tabis are no longer an insider tip — everyone has come across them somewhere. Even though split toes are still so controversial, the once-niche shoes have become a must-have due to increasing media visibility.
Where does the sudden hype come from?
Social media in particular has contributed greatly to tabis finding their way into the mainstream. The fashion scene on TikTok is large and its video format is perfect for exchange. Especially for the new generation of fashion enthusiasts, alongside Instagram and Pinterest, it is the ultimate source of inspiration, and for this reason, everything that happens in this cosmos can become a trend. At the same time, the fashion industry is being democratized: everyone can access everything and is exposed to everything. This means that even people who are not deeply involved in the scene can be confronted with such niche shoes. And while extravagant shoes are generally becoming more and more popular, such as the Moon Boots, the Big Red Boots from MSCHF, etc., the popularity of Tabis is also increasing. After all, standing out from the crowd still plays a big role, and with shoes like these, you will definitely stand out.
The shoe is also very photogenic and memorable. Countless influencers have already presented the shoe with a cigarette or a wine glass between their toes and received countless likes for it.
In addition, the shoe has also become a part of pop culture, with popular shows such as Emily in Paris have already featured the shoes. Tabi boots are also more popular than ever among celebrities with Dua Lipa, Kylie Jenner, Nick Jonas, and A$AP Rocky as just a few names on an endless list.
Tabis = Basic?
Despite the hype and such high visibility on all platforms, the shoe is not for every person due to its unusual look. No matter how mainstream the shoe appears now, this still happens in the fashion sphere - for most people, the shoe is and remains the hoof shoe.
