Stella McCartney and the Desire to Dance for Fall/Winter 2021

Stella McCartney's video unveiling the Fall/Winter 2021 collection is a burst of energy. Captured by the duo Mert & Marcus in the corridors of the Tate Modern in London, it starts from a very simple concept: What do women want today? And starting from the D which stands for "Desire" taken from the label's A to Z manifesto, the garments reflect the incredible desire we all have to go out, party, see an exhibition, meet friends, or enjoy nature.

And this is precisely what Stella McCartney herself says about the collection. She tells us that she can't wait to be able to return to normal soon and has transmitted this thought through a collection designed to combine glamour and sport, daytime styles and sparkling sequined evening looks (made sustainably, without PVC). And she didn't forget about the kitschy details, like heart-shaped sunglasses made of bioacetate and bio-lenses, that reflect the commitment to using renewable materials that reduce the need for petroleum-based plastics.

The colors are strong—as she says "bold"—with lots of sky blue, purple, electric blue, mint, magenta red, bee yellow, and grass green. For the going-out looks, the London kids' clubs were an important reference, extravagant and irreverent with psychedelic graphics and motifs on tight-fitting silk turtlenecks, tracksuits, puffer jackets, and short dresses that expose the skin.

And then there is also the sustainability of which McCartney has been a pioneer since the birth of the brand. For Fall/Winter 2021, 77 percent of the collection is made with sustainable materials, including coats and tailored garments created using wool from farms selected for their excellent regulations on animal welfare and regenerative agricultural practices, especially those that concern organic cotton. McCartney has also recently launched and patented Mylo, a fiber obtained from the matrix of mycelium fungi, which acts as a substitute for vegan leather. For the designer, in fact, sustainability rhymes with technology, and her team is constantly engaged in the search for less polluting alternative materials, with less waste and harmful emissions for the environment.

The play of maxi and mini volumes is a constant in the collection. The standout pieces of the season include the cropped and oversized MA1 bomber jackets, with a touch of grunge-glam, made of regenerated nylon and Econyl®; the tight-fitting ruffled dresses and peplum silhouettes in stretch satin made of eco-friendly viscose; and printed knitwear, present not only in the form of sweaters and turtlenecks but also flared skirts. For a touch of the '70s, the trousers are wide-flared, in black, a checkered variant, houndstooth, or in 3D dotted regenerated wool. Crafted from a T-shirt-like material, vibrant, wrap-around crêpe dresses with knots, cut-outs, and ribbed trims emphasize the energetic casual style. Reinforcing this aesthetic are the trousers with zippers and sporty hems, decorated with knee pads inspired by snowboard clothing. The British designer seems to tell us that her clothes are ready for anything.