Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2025: The Carnation Takes Center Stage
At the Old Bailey, England's Central Criminal Court, Simone Rocha presented her Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear and menswear show during London Fashion Week, which paid homage to the flower.
Among the precious and impressive marbles of London's historic Central Criminal Court, Simone Rocha's show opened with a series of thunderous applause, accompanied by the soundtrack of Amarcord by Nino Rota. From the very beginning, a special attention is placed to the gestures of the models on the catwalk: folded arms, clasped hands, some clutching bunches of flowers, while others close their jackets as a sign of introspection or being cold. The starting point of the men's and women's Spring/Summer 2025 collection is the details linked to the carnation, a scented flower often worn in the buttonhole by men to adorn jackets on formal occasions. Throughout the collection, the flower evolves into compositions of crystals, embroidered to outline the crew necks of the tops, along the blazers and applied to several of the garments.
In Simone Rocha's show, men dialogue harmoniously with women. The wardrobe draws inspiration from the world of ballet, with tutus worn with deconstructed sweaters, raincoats and tailored blazers. Bags are covered in vaporous tulle and flat shoes are transformed into ballerina pointe shoes, also reinterpreted in a mesh version. Pearls, a Rocha trademark, give way to sparkling crystals (with the exception of the pearly duckling-shaped bag) while bows remain, becoming increasingly important to adorn draped dresses and capes paired with balloon skirts. The show has proven to be one of the most anticipated events on the London Fashion Week calendar and Simone Rocha's potential continues to grow season after season as confirmed by Kelly Rutherford, sitting elegantly in a pink dress in the first row.
