Adrian Appiolaza’s Moschino Debut Stays Authentic to the Brand’s Expressive Personality

We are at the debut of the new creative director Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino, who decided to title the Fall/Winter 2024 show "Collezione 0." The venue, set in the Permanente Museum, is decorated with grey skies and white clouds, almost symbolizing an air of uncertainty. The first impression is to expect the usual tribute to the House of Moschino and the vision of the founder, Franco Moschino. Instead, we find ourselves faced with a show made up of re-elaborations of stylistic and aesthetic codes mixed with the right dose of current social issues.

The trompe l'oeil technique captures the crowd's attention with prints of suspenders, guêpières, and ties that twist around the neck of white t-shirts. Moschino's new creative vision also emerges with the irreverent, diversified, and remixed styling: the stockings are not worn but remain attached to the suspenders, the hats are tripled, the trench coat sleeves are placed on headpieces with a couture-like character, the ties become belts, and the pearl necklaces lengthen until they transform into shoulder pads that wrap around the silhouette. And finally, the loud style, a Moschino trademark, manifests into dresses with messages bearing the words "Peace," as well as the question mark print that asks observers to reflect on the uncertain future that awaits us.

Appiolaza's first fashion show reflects the soul of Moschino and stays loyal to its cultural and aesthetic heritage. The current Fall/Winter 2024 collection reflects the brand's authentic identity.