Fashion

How Marc Jacobs Stays in the Cultural Zeitgeist

From various iconic Louis Vuitton artist collaborations to his most recent Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Marc Jacobs' illustrious career as a fashion designer is largely accredited to his ability to spark youth-centered trends.

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Since the beginning of Marc Jacobs' fashion journey in the '90s, the iconic American designer has been a leading figure in trend-setting and placing himself at the core of the ongoing cultural zeitgeist. Take a look at some of the moments from his fashion archives and runway presentations that defined him as popular culture's it-designer.

Perry Ellis Grunge Collection

Models sitting outside in a field in plaid skirts, combat boots, and t-shirts.

Once misunderstood and now visionary, Jacobs' 1992 grunge-inspired collection for Perry Ellis is one of the designer's earliest examples of being in touch with the youth zeitgeist. Jacobs was also one of the first to interpret grunge fashion, defined by hand-me-downs and thrift store finds, into luxury clothing.

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2000

Model walks the runway in a matching taupe turtleneck and pants.

As minimalist fashion reached a peak, Jacobs' early Louis Vuitton collections as creative director mirrored the monochromatic, laid-back look. The Fall/Winter 2000 collection exemplified the chic, dialed-back fashion styling that defined the late '90s. 

Louis Vuitton x Stephen Sprouse

Male models walk the runway in black coats while carrying suitcases with Louis Vuitton written on them in graffiti letters.

The start of many collaborations between artists and Louis Vuitton, fashion designer Stephen Sprouse's 2001 monogram bags are a piece of fashion history. Louis Vuitton accessories came alive with Sprouse's illustrative graffiti-style branding was an edgier, cooler look for the classic heritage brand.

Louis Vuitton x Takashi Murakami

Paris Hilton wears a matching pink tank top and pants and carries a multi-colored Louis Vuitton bag.

Jacobs, with the help of Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, created the it-bag of the Y2K era in 2003. Murakami's cherry motifs, signature illustrations, and brightly-colored monogram bags were the playful little sister to Sprouse's in-your-face graffiti style. The Murakami bags were a Paris Hilton favorite, thus becoming a staple of fashion's biggest trend of the early to mid-2000s. 

Louis Vuitton x Kanye West

Kanye West on stage in a red blazer, black shirt, and red jeans with matching red sneakers.

A sneaker that defined the late 2000s and early 2010s, Kanye West's collaboration with Louis Vuitton was one of the first of many of the rapper's explorations into fashion pre-dating his Yeezy line. The red sneaker itself set a trend for future affiliation with rappers and luxury brands.

Marc Jacobs' Kendall Jenner Debut

Kendall Jenner walks in the runway in a sheer brown top and equestrian style pants.

Contemporary supermodel Kendall Jenner made her New York Fashion Week runway debut in Jacobs' Fall/Winter 2014, a career-defining moment for the reality star turned model. The neutral earth-toned collection itself was ahead of its time, as the monochromatic nude palette has made its way into 2020s fashion thanks to Kim Kardashian's Skims line.

Marc Jacobs x Stray Rats

Frank Ocean wearing a blue and green striped sweater with a black rat on the chest and Chinese lettering on the sleeves.

Jacobs fully dabbled in modern streetwear in a collaboration with streetwear Stray Rats in honor of the Lunar Year of the Rat in 2020. Beloved music artist Frank Ocean modeled for the campaign, further bringing in youth and streetwear elements to his repertoire. The "Stinky Rat" motif has been part of Jacobs' archives since the early millennium and has continued to make an appearance in recent designs.

Heaven by Marc Jacobs

Two models stand in front of street graffiti, one wearing a pink and orange sweater and gray skirt while the other sports a floral yellow dress over a green top.

In a spirited resurgence of Jacobs' love for youth subculture, Heaven exemplifies Gen-Z fashion. With grunge elements, vintage books, and Sofia Coppola references, it's an archive of Y2K memorabilia curated alongside current fashion trends. With Nicki Minaj modeling for Heaven's most recent campaign, the hype has only increased with each collection.

Heroes

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After a three-year hiatus from NYFW, Marc Jacobs returned with a heartfelt and earnest collection in 2023. His inspiration came from honoring some of his fellow designers, including the late Vivienne Westwood, and, like always, showcasing his notorious ability to push fashion boundaries. 

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