L'HISTOIRE: Madonna's 1990 Jean Paul Gautier Cone Bra
In a fusion of fashion and rebellion, Madonna helped boost the Jean Paul Gaultier cone bra's symbolism while wearing it on tour in the 1990s.
L’HISTOIRE explores fashion history moments you should know, from what actors wore on a red carpet to celebrities who made cameos on the runway. Some are unsung, and some are better known. Each is part of the fabric of today’s fashion world, be it barrier breakers or culture makers.
Madonna's canonical cultural impact is not just from her music, but a large part is from her corresponding fashion. This is showcased no better than in the '90s, when she embarked on her Blonde Ambition World Tour that conceived a series of iconic fashion history moments. The tour opened in 1990 in Japan, and in the debut show, she wore what is now one of pop culture’s most iconic fashion statements: Jean Paul Gaultier’s cone bra.
“At first you know I didn’t do it [for Madonna]", Gautier revealed in a 2019 This Morning interview, describing the playful nature of the design's origins. “I created it for my teddy bear because I have a teddy bear called Nana." The cone bra began as an imaginative creation for a childhood companion before evolving into an emblem of Madonna’s provocative artistry. He first sent the lingerie-ish silhouette down the runway in 1983 for his Fall/Winter 1984 Barbès collection. When Madonna wore a pale-colored version on-stage, the look became synonymous with her image, one that symbolizes a feminine embrace of sexuality.
The cone bra since made triumphant returns in the star's wardrobe. For example, Gaultier reimagined it in a sleek black strappy version for the opening night of Madonna’s MDNA tour in 2012. It also resurfaced in 2018 when she donned another interpretation of the look for her Met Gala performance, paying homage to the "Heavenly Bodies" theme. In 2023, as Madonna prepared for her Celebration Tour, she dove into her archives, sharing glimpses of her most iconic Gaultier-designed pieces from the Blonde Ambition era on Instagram. Among the highlights was, of course, the unforgettable satin cone bra, a timeless symbol of her artistic legacy. Other celebrities like Julia Fox have embraced the look too, paying homage to Madonna.
To channel this legendary look, pair the French designer's conical bra bodysuit with a chunky white belt, a bold red lip, and tight ringlets for a look that captures Madonna’s undeniable aura of confidence and rebellion.
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