Loewe Brings the 19th Century to the Present for Spring/Summer 2025
Jonathan Anderson celebrates the century in which the Spanish fashion house was born.
Inside the courtyard of the Château de Vincennes, Loewe's structure for the women’s spring summer 2025 show is covered in what looks like a musical score. After a very long photocall with celebrities like Meg Ryan, Daniel Craig, and Pharrell, we enter the set, which is composed of an empty space with a thin pole in the center, on which a wooden nightingale is positioned.
The show opens with floral dresses in very light organza supported by voluminous crinolines underneath. Among Jonathan Anderson's new creations, there are leather jackets that become feminine capes, glossy minidresses in colored patent leather, see-through mesh tops with fluttering marabou feathers, crossovers between jackets and dresses shaped with mother-of-pearl finishes, crocodile coats broken in half by a belt, and that flowing tailoring so loved by the creative director of Loewe.
Models wear lace-ups that seem perfectly disproportionate. Cargo pants are covered in meticulously chopped feathers that recall military camouflage. There are tops decorated with feathers that reproduce works by Van Gogh, as well as tributes to musical masters such as Frédéric François Chopin, Johann Sebastian Bach and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart.
With this show, Jonathan Anderson returns to the origins of the brand, going back to 1864, the year of the foundation of the Spanish Maison. Through the art, music and silhouettes of the nineteenth century, he re-proposes the history of Loewe with its aesthetic vocabulary, offering a cultural rereading of tradition reinterpreted for our modern days.