Loewe's Blurred Vision Shows at the Château de Vincennes

Accessing the garden of the Château de Vincennes, a minimalist white structure rises with a setting inside occupied by 21 cubes of pressed colored confetti. These are the works "Colored confetti" by the Italian contemporary artist Lara Favaretto, an analysis between order and entropy made with the colors sampled from the film Midsommar. It is precisely on this stark contrast that Jonathan Anderson focuses his idea for the Loewe Fall/Winter 2023 women's collection. "Reduction, in and out of focus," reads the press release, as if to embrace a need for a rigorous return to focus and out-of-focus order.

The subtly intimate approach is carried forward with a variety of silhouettes and textures, as well as the interaction between materials, bodies, and light. Draped satin dresses supported by metal spheres positioned on the décolleté, super sparkling coats, trousers covered in lilac feathers, two-tone furs, and trompe-l'oeil silk dresses aid in Anderson's goal of visual play.

The same stiffened blazers of the Fall/Winter 2023 men's collection, velvet long dresses, and a series of colored rubber garments are also taken up in the Loewe collection. The looks are reduced to a single garment declined in the simplest possible form and worn with a gestural detail, such as folded arms, a brooch that collects the complexity of the volumes, a chain that supports the drapery, and sculptural folds that unfold on the body of the woman. All are worn with leather panta-boots or décolleté that slim the female figure. In addition to the maxi Tote Puzzle and the Paseo, Anderson also introduces the new leather Squeeze Bag, with a squishy handle and donut chain detail.

Stars and special guests included: Catherine O'Hara, Jamie Dornan, Taeyong Lee, Emily Ratajkowski, Dan Levy, Indya Moore, Kelela, Chloë Sevigny, Josh O'Connor, Karol G, Bad Gyal, Luca Guadagnino, Amina Muaddi, Tina Kunakey, and Chiara Mastroianni.