A Look at the Leather Jacket Throughout History

The leather jacket has been a timeless garment for nearly a hundred years. Although unique interpretations of this jacket are frequently released on several runway shows during fashion week, it is the traditional black leather jacket that is a universal classic to which we always return. 

Functional military clothing has been identified by fashion historians as an area that has had a strong influence on the prevailing clothing trends in society for centuries. A leather jacket is no exception. During World War I, this garment served as a uniform for German pilots to protect against sudden temperature changes in the cockpit of a manned aircraft. During World War II, functional leather jackets were already worn by American and British pilots. True, these jackets were mostly brown, and the silhouette itself—a bomber—was quite different from the modern shape we are familiar with, these leather jackets were still a prominent piece of outerwear during this time. 

In 1928, Irvin Schott created the first motorcycle jacket design deemed The Perfecto jacket, which was named after Schott's favorite cigar company. The Perfecto jacket was first introduced as a fashion object and—almost a hundred years later—became a starting point for many designers who were in search of innovative interpretations of jacket design.

The charismatic heroes seen in films often become an object of inspiration for an entire generation that, by replicating the characters' outfits, attempt to identify with the romanticized and idealized world beyond the silver screen. The first time a leather jacket was seen by viewers on a Hollywood screen was in 1953. In The Wild One, the leather jacket was worn by the legendary actor Marlon Brando, who portrayed a dangerous gang member.

The leather jacket has become a symbol of rebellion, not only because of fictional film characters played by Brando or Steve McQueen, but also because of one of the most prominent actors of the '50s, James Dean. It was his charisma and teen angst that was associated with the notion of rebellion in the leather jacket, and this rebellious personality mostly resonated with younger audiences. This garment, which has acquired a symbolic meaning, has even been banned from being worn in schools in order to isolate students from the romanticization of gang culture.

The second half of the last century was marked by the aesthetics of subcultures, which marked each decade and were guided by different values. The rock music culture of the '70s and '80s, based on bold non-conformist ideas, became a phenomenon best illustrated by the leather jacket. Artists like The Ramones, Sex Pistols, Billy Idol, and David Bowie utilized the leather jacket as a symbol of a somewhat altered, often political, uprising that had an impact among younger generations seeking freedom of expression and individuality. The leather jacket was also worn by influential female rock musicians, such as Patti Smith, Joan Jett, and Blondie.

It is important to talk about the aesthetic of the '90s in the current fashion context, where a nostalgic return to the fashion trends of this decade can be felt. The leather jacket became an emerging trend in the fashion industry around this decade, especially due to the strong influence of the first generation of supermodels. From Kate Moss to Naomi Campbell to Christy Turlington, these models channeled an off-duty aesthetic that focuses on plain shirts, jeans, and, of course, a leather jacket. It is this decade that can be described as a turning point when the leather jacket became the object of a mass trend and a major part of pop culture.

The design of the leather jacket, introduced in 1928, had not lost its relevance even today. The development of sustainable fabrics, such as vegan leather, have been created in laboratories to mimic the aesthetic of leather without harming animals or the environment.

Furthermore, fashion houses such as Balmain, Rick Owens, Saint Laurent, Vetements, and The Row experiment with the silhouette of a classic leather jacket while also incorporating their own distinctive qualities: asymmetrical cuts, bold shoulders, or other details. Fashion is constantly evolving, so watching new interpretations of an iconic garment like the leather jacket can be quite enticing. Still, it seems that even the interpretations of the leather jacket presented by the most prestigious fashion houses do not obscure the original traits of the classic black leather jacket.