The History and Creative Effort Behind Harry Styles' Gender Fluid Fashion

In November, Harry Styles made fashion history. He fronted Vogue as the publication’s first solo male cover star, in a Gucci gown no less. The decision brought criticism from traditionalist pundits while also garnering praise for its push of gender fluid fashion in the mainstream.

Styles’ fashion is notable not only in its current nature but also its evolution. Maturing under the public eye after an X Factor audition turned into the formation of one of the biggest boy bands of our time, we’ve seen Styles move past the preppy One Direction heartthrob to find his individuality, one chunky ring and painted fingernail at a time. In our current social climate, it’s an experience that a lot of men can relate to as traditional gender norms lose their hold. 

Redefining masculinity, men’s fashion now makes space for more androgynous elements, seen in the rise of soft boy style on social media, on the runways of Alessandro Michele’s Gucci and Kim Jones’ Dior Men, and through the adoption of dresses by celebrities like Styles, fellow Gucci-favorite Jared Leto, and rappers Jaden Smith and Bad Bunny. While the “Golden” singer no doubt has a distinct personal style, its sartorial impact is thanks in large part to his celebrity status and the creative help and designer clothes that come with it, allowing for the ultimate opportunity to play dress-up.

One of Styles’ most valuable assets in cultivating his boundary-pushing look is his personal stylist Harry Lambert, a fashion editor and celebrity stylist who’s worked with the likes of experimental zines like Dazed, i-D, and Office Magazine. Many of Styles’ memorable looks—the Gucci blouse that billowed as Styles played piano underwater in his “Falling” music video, the magenta Paloma Spain suit in his Fine Line cover shoot—are the result of a dance between designer and stylist to cultivate a look that represents Styles’ creativity.

The celebrity and stylist duo is nothing new or revolutionary, but often overlooked. Street style, one of the most profitable and trend-pushing forms of celebrity fashion, is not simply an outfit that’s thrown on in the morning, but the result of a lengthier process that involves fittings and designer pulls. For Styles, his street style appearances often feature custom Gucci ensembles or designer ready-to-wear. His memorable Princess Diana-inspired sheep print sweater vest, for example, was from Lanvin and styled with a Gucci button-up and trousers.

With the process of curating the perfect look comes research, and celebrating Styles' fashion choices commends an ode to those that came before him. The decision to dress Styles in feminine silhouettes has its roots in music and beyond, from rappers like Young Thug wearing Alessandro Trincone, to older androgynous icons like Prince and David Bowie, to basketball star Dennis Rodman’s consistent play with eccentric pieces—glittering camisoles, bold prints, and playful hair colors. Meanwhile, members of the queer community, from drag queens to Trans folks and non-conforming individuals, have also challenged sartorial gender norms throughout history, paving the way for cis-men like Styles to be applauded for their fashion choices.