5 Emerging Fashion Brands You Should Know About
From Florania to Institution, let's discover the collections of the newest brands you should have your eye on.
It was a rather eventful start to the year for fashion, from viral moments on the catwalks (the bag "made" of air by Coperni) to important launches and debuts, such as that of Chemena Kamali by Chloè and Sabato De Sarno at Gucci. Yesterday, there was also the announcement of Dries Van Noten 's departure from his epononymous brand, which was a shock for the entire fashion system. But what does fashion do best? It moves on. And with a new season upon us, there's a new group of amazing talents that deserve to be noticed.
Whether it's handcrafted creations with a sustainable ethos or revisited wardrobe classics, there are brilliant names that are changing the narrative of the fashion landscape as we know it. Here are five of them.
FLORANIA
Founded by Flora Rabitti in 2021, Florania is an independent, genderless and no-season ready-to-wear clothing brand, hand-produced between Milan and Mantua with a very particular motto "solar punk" or being positive and punk. The Florania autumn winter 2024 "Two Moons" collection evokes a fantastic and mysterious world, inspired by the narrative of Haruki Murakami and Japanese cinema where enigmatic characters mix with natural and grotesque elements. The print is hand-painted by the designer while the pieces include tailored coats, stitch patchwork suits, recycled cashmere sweaters and airbrushed denim. New streetwear items made in collaboration with SPAARKD are certified innovative and made with sustainable materials. The accessories, designed with jewelry designer Margherita Potenza, include regenerated metal elements. The fabrics, coming from Japanese partners such as Sakura Collection and Kyocera Corporation, tell stories of rebirth and transformation. Each garment is made in Italy following a regenerative design philosophy, with a production chain based on Social Ateliers.
INSTITUTION
INSTITUTION is the new creative project by Galib Gassanoff, a designer of Georgian origin who in 2016 co-founded and co-designed ACT N°1 until the SS 2023 fashion show. The birth of the brand is more of a multidisciplinary project and will operate as a socio-artistic organization with an ethical foundation. The debut of the project took place with a presentation inside the Secci Art Gallery, with clothes hanging on the walls to allow a detailed vision of the craftsmanship and construction of the pieces, most of which were cut and packaged by the designer himself. Most of the collection is made of natural fibers such as silk, cotton, wool and leather. The materials come from the stocks and inventories of high-end manufacturers, making the availability of each item limited. The hand weaving technique used is taken from the designer's community of origin, the Azeris of Georgia, and uses cotton laces instead of the wool threads of traditional carpets. Since this skill risks being lost, the designer intends to support the generational transition by involving local communities of women in the creation of the collections, guaranteeing their use.
ZOMER
Zomer , a name derived from the Dutch word meaning "summer," is a Dutch brand founded by Danial Aitouganov and Imruh Asha, characterized by kaleidoscopic colors, unexpected textures and experimental silhouettes, balancing a sense of childlike playfulness with elevated sophistication. For the second collection, they explored the realm of vibrant colors and the fusion of 2D and 3D elements. This exploration was the starting point that gave birth to a line that reflects the designers' admiration for artistic expression and design. The brand offers a complete collection of ready-to-wear, with a focus on craftsmanship, colors and shapes. ECCO Leather supplied the leather used for the entire collection while Knitwearlab supplied the jersey. In addition to the fashion shows, Zomer is launching viral campaigns: the most recent "Spot the difference" is the second after the already iconic "It's Just Kids".
DURAN LANTINK
Based in Amsterdam and Paris, Duran Lantink combines existing materials with innovative low-impact materials, creating ever-evolving shapes and silhouttes. The "Duran-ski" autumn winter 2024 collection presented at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris is a conceptual interpretation of clothes to wear during leisure time for those who practice luxury winter sports. The shapes of the knitwear and outerwear are taken to the extreme and, thanks to a collaboration with Knitwear Lab, the yarns have been worked to create bodysuits with puffy shoulders and thigh-high sock-boots inspired by those worn by Dutch firefighters over the years '70. '80s shapes and cuts are reinterpreted with broad, forward-facing shoulders, as opposed to canvas jackets reassembled from repurposed ski coats and shearling jackets made from discarded sheepskins. The brand usually experiments with hybrid design and with vintage pieces from Loewe and Margiela that form the basis for new shapes.
MERYLL ROGGE
Based in Belgium, Meryll Rogge combines the simplicity of menswear with women's eveningwear, playing on an ambivalent style. Femininity is the basis of the brand, intended for a free-spirited woman who favors personal affirmation. Meryll Rogge studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and after working for Marc Jacobs in New York and Dries Van Noten in Antwerp, she decided to launch her own brand. In 2021 she received the Belgian Fashion Prize as an emerging designer, and the following year she was nominated for the 2022 LVMH Prize. The Meryll Rogge autumn winter 2024 collection is the fourth presentation of the brand and evokes the desire to party. The looks combine underground style with new beat scenes, ranging from floral prints to sequined jackets and dresses, from athletic clothing pieces such as hoods to shiny Lurex dresses. The glamour of the prints is interspersed with the overlapping of scarves and raincoats and vinyl skirts. The collection is a succession of more glamorous and casual outfits, with paisley satin shirts and knitted cardigans embroidered with brushed mohair rhinestones.