Decoding the Difference Between Ethical and Sustainable Fashion
Ten years ago, examples of environmentally friendly and ethically produced fashion were lacking both in frequency and design appeal. Today, the terms "sustainable" and "ethical" are buzzwords akin to “diversity” and “inclusivity” within the fashion industry. Ethical fashion has become so sought after by consumers in fact, the market value is projected to grow from $6.35 billion as of 2019 to $8.25 billion in 2023, and by 2030 reach $15.17 billion globally. This growth does not, however, include sustainable fashion which is its own multi-billion dollar market. The phrases are often used interchangeably, but sustainable and ethical fashion are actually indicative of two individual, but linked, movements for change.
Sustainable fashion is focused on addressing the ongoing climate crisis through environmentally conscious production. A 2020 report published by Mckinsey & Company and Global Fashion Agenda stated that 70 percent of fashion industry related greenhouse gas emissions occur during the raw material to garment production tier of supply chains. Thus, sustainable fashion focuses on what clothes are made out of and the methods in which they are produced and distributed. Terms like "green," "eco-friendly," and "organic" are often tied to sustainable fashion, because they address its environmental footprint.
Sustainable fashion also extends to the lifespan of a product. While most clothes end up in a landfill—its projected that 134 million tons of textiles will be discarded annually by 2030—sustainably mindful brands are looking for alternatives to slow that number's growth and keep clothes out of the trash bin. From reusing their own textiles, to developing new ones from post-consumer waste, to creating circular production cycles (where nearly all materials get recycled in some capacity), there are a myriad of sustainable strategies. Now, brands like Angel Chang, Another Tomorrow, and Pangaia are even rewiring manufacturing processes with seed-to-button biodegradable materials.
In tandem with sustainability, ethical fashion labels are not only focused on the environment, but also on people (although the two often overlap). The fashion industry, from big names to local boutiques is infamous for outsourcing human labor for less than a living wage's worth. This model of mass manufacturing abroad where it is easier to violate the human rights standards of the United States, United Kingdom, and other "developed" countries allows for increased product output and profit, but at the cost of individual livelihoods, liberty, and sometimes even lives. In April 2013, the Rana Plaza Building in Bangladesh caved in, killing over 1,100 garment workers and exposing the extent to which inhumane labor conditions can reach. And though large labels like Nike, who was shamed in the early ‘90s for its abuse of Chinese and Indonesian workers, are typically thought to be the culprits, a brand of any size that outsources labor can be guilty of poor ethics.
For brands that are concsious of their social impacts, getting Fair Trade Certifieid indicates to customers that their products are made by people who earn a livable wage and work in safe conditions. Labels including Madewell, Patagoina, and J. Crew have specific lines that are Fair Trade Certified, and many others may support fair labor practices that help support the local communities of the artisans and workers. Oftentimes, working with local craftsman also means producing clothes using the natural materials available to those communities, such as cotton, linen, and wool, bringing a sustainable aspect to ethical clothing, too.
But not all environmentally sustainable brands are ethical—major brands like H&M may have sustainable initiatives but continue to outsource production to overseas factories—and many brands don’t disclose one or the other. So what do you do if you want to support climate change and human rights with your purchases? Turn to brands who are making both a priority. Aurora James’ accessories line Brother Vellies, a gorgeous selection of handcrafted handbags and shoes from South Africa, Ethiopia, Kenya, and Morocco, is a great place to start. Then, when you're ready to move on from accessories to your wardrobe, check out Elizabeth Suzanne’s Nashville-based brand of delightful knits, jumpsuits, and jackets perfect for this winter season.
Even luxury labels like Gucci, which has committed to making 95 percent of its raw material traceable; Stella McCartney, a brand known for its sustainable and vegan initiatives; and Gabriela Hearst, which sources many of its textiles from the eponymous designer's family ranch in Uraguay, have made strides in bringing the ethical and sustainable vernacular into high fashion.
While fashion still has a long way to go concerning its environmental and social impacts, having a better understanding of both can help keep the industry accountable.