Embrace Dark Academia This Fall

Photography ZEB DAEMEN

Styled by KOEN T. HENDRIKS

As fall hits its stride, take full command of the season by embracing the enigmatic and preppy palette of dark academia. 

Brands such as Ferrari and Prada are tapping into the bookish, vintage aesthetic while delving deeper into their exploratory playscapes. Moody and youthful spins on traditional cool weather pieces such as sharp coats, wool sweaters, and sophisticated turtlenecks take center stage in smooth and breathable fabrics and shades of charcoal gray, muted pomegranate, and chocolatey browns. At the same time, deferential silhouettes, timeless and transitional colors, and ultra-soft to the touch fabrics allow craftsmanship to usurp the spotlight. 

This season, designers reawaken classic models by injecting a lighter, more liberated masculinity. For autumn staples, fashion houses overhauled traditional materials like wool and instead indulged in shiny satin to establish a foundation of understated polish. Ferrari balanced built-in structure and fragility with its satin jumpsuit containing succinctly-shaped shoulders, fluid lines, and a belt that distinctively concentrates on the body. Meanwhile, Prada gave the turtleneck a trendy update by harnessing satin to create an emphatic profile that faintly undulates around the body. 

Evoke timeless literary nostalgia by mixing fabrics and layering pieces to create a unified ensemble deserving of regard. Brands like Fendi and Marant constructed highly breathable polos with crisp tailoring—the quintessential base for smart dressing. To blend warmth with the visual interest of color blocking, add a sharp vest or finely ribbed sweater for the utmost scholarly demeanor. To level longevity with audacity, play with a variety of fabrics by adding a pair of shiny satin pants and smooth brushed leather shoes. For under-the-radar finesse, throw on a wool trench. Prada’s version developed a version spacious enough for unrestrained movement throughout vacillating autumnal temperatures without being excessively grandiose. 

Below, see how designers are rewriting the codes of contemporary aristocratic elegance, so you can exert unassailable sartorial authority this fall.