6 Facts About Stephen Burrows, the Pioneering African American Designer of the '70s

In honor of the legendary Battle of Versailles designer's birthday, learn some more about his life and legacy.

Few designers feel as relevant today as Stephen Burrows. A staple of New York City’s disco scene in the ‘60s, but also an international sensation from his French debut at the legendary Battle of Versailles, Burrows' bold, but comfortable aesthetic is more relevant than ever. From Brandon Maxwell’s color-coded Spring/Summer 2021 collection to Christopher John Rogers's rainbow color-blocked knit dresses to Miu Miu’s saturated Spring/Summer 2021 collection, Burrows’ influence is truly everywhere.

Born in Newark, New Jersey to father Gerald Burrows and mother Octavia Pennington, fashion was a part of the designer’s life from an early age. Both his parents worked for the Hattie Carnegie label in the Garment District of New York City as sample makers. So before Burrows was even in high school he had made his first pair of pants out of a leather trench coat that belonged to his grandmother. His grandmother Beatrice Simmons was also Burrows's teacher, who showed him how to formally sew, cut, and create when he was in high school. It was during this time that he developed his signature “zigzag" stitch.

There is so much more to the designer’s personal and sartorial history that often does not have enough light shed upon it. In celebration of Burrows’ birthday this year, here, L’OFFICIEL rounds up six facts about his life and legacy.

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Stephen Burrows at the Philadelphia Museum

Initially the designer attended the Philadelphia Museum College of Art in Pennsylvania, but moved to New York City in 1962 to attend The Fashion Institute of Technology instead.

Stephen Burrows designing for Weber Originals

After graduating from FIT, he was hired as a designer for Weber Originals, but left Weber in 1967 to co-found O Boutique in New York City.

Stephen Burrows attracted Cher, Barbara Streisand, and Diana Ross

During his time running Stephen Burrows World out of Henri Bendel’s studio, entertainment icons like Diana Ross, Barbara Streisand, and Cher were among Burrows’ most frequent customers.

Stephen Burrows collection as only black designer at Battle of Versailles.

The only black designer at the Battle of Versailles, Burrows brought 10 Black models, including Bethann Hardison, Billie Blair, Norma Jean Darden, and Pat Cleveland.

Runway of Battle of Versailles for Stephen Burrows

On the runway at the Battle of Versailles, Burrows became the first internationally acclaimed African American designer and thereafter also became the first African American to win the Coty Award, the highest honor in American fashion at the time.