Saint Laurent Channels Robert Mapplethorpe in Men's Fall/Winter 2025
The collection transforms unconventional pairings into irresistible, seductive looks, with a sartorial ode to the American photographer.
Since its founding, Saint Laurent has thrived on the tension between opposites, born from the dynamic partnership of its namesake, Yves Saint Laurent, and Pierre Bergé. For the Men’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, creative director Anthony Vaccarello delves into this duality, crafting a line that celebrates the house’s heritage while embracing daring and unexpected pairings.
At the heart of the collection lies a bold interplay of counterintuitive elements, where traditional tailoring meets avant-garde fluidity. Vaccarello draws inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent’s timeless designs, referencing pieces from his Haute Couture and Rive Gauche collections while channeling the seductive and subversive energy of iconic American photographer Robert Mapplethorpe (who also was Patti Smith's lover and friend). The result is a collection that oscillates between restraint and provocation, exemplifying what Vaccarello calls a "menacing, seductive elegance" in both silhouette and detail, per show notes.
Key pieces from the collection include feather-trimmed coats, both voluminous and theatrical, which are juxtaposed with sharp, structured double-breasted jackets. High leather boots, resembling fishing waders, add an audacious edge to classic tailoring. The pairing of a sleek Saint Laurent suit with thigh-high boots may sound impractical, yet Vaccarello masterfully transformed it into a look that is both sharp and undeniably beguiling on the runway at his show in Paris. Similarly, the combination of a polka dot tie, a striped button-up, and a plaid suit jacket may not seem sensible in theory, but Vaccarello makes it make sense.
Set in a dimly lit rotunda, illuminated by stunning candlelit chandeliers at its center, the atmosphere exuded intimate allure. Celebrities flocked to the front row, with Gabriette and The Dare—Charli XCX’s muses—taking their place alongside Zoë Kravitz and Iris Law. Click through the gallery below to see every look from the Saint Laurent Men’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection.