Saint Laurent Men's Spring 2020
When it comes to fashion shows, the male industry still has a lot to learn from the grand performances of his female counterpart; especially considering the idyllic outbids of recent female cruise collection presentations. But in some cases, menswear brands are beginning to challenge the female outbids. Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello surprised the industry with his first male show for Yves Saint Laurent a year ago. Since then, relocation and distinction of menswear seems to be sweeping east and west throughout Europe. Although 10,000 kilometers away and 15-hour time difference, Prada and Yves Saint Laurent chose to parade on the same day. On June 6, 2019, Prada opened the first event in Shanghai in an explosion of colors. Subsequently, the house Saint Laurent closed in an irresistibly romantic monochrome procession with a slight twist.
The simple fact that Vaccarello chose the small beach of Paradise Cove in Malibu suggests many allusions. The designer boldly stated that "LA is the new Marrakesh," a fitting comparison considering Yves Saint Laurents affinity for the Moroccan city. We saw this in the form of wide harem pants, a stark deviation of the skinny jeans that have become synonymous with the house. Posing a podium of black wooden slats on the sand, kissed by the waves of the Pacific Ocean, the scene immediately set the spirit of the house, known for freedom, bold lines, and modernity.
The collection is directly inspired by the electric sensuality of a young Mick Jagger, mid-seventies era. The site boasted a dark atmosphere, ethereal, filiform, evanescent silhouettes tinged with contrasting rock details. A true aesthetic marvel for the eyes. Some vintage pieces from the personal dressing room of the English rock-star were sources of inspiration for the French designer. In such concern for authenticity, we better understand the invitation to travel. And just like Jagger, Saint Laurent got its moves.
