Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2020: Runway Show or Baroque Costume Drama?

One could argue that today's Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2020 show highlighted two collections, not one. And no, this isn't a metaphor for one of those shows with over 100 looks—creative director Nicolas Ghesquière kept it to a tight 46, but he chose to share the spotlight with another celebrated designer. Before a single look from LV proper had taken the runway, the audience marveled at a grandstand of over 200 performers, all wearing fantastical creations by Oscar-winning costume designer Milena Canonero, who has worked on Stanley Kubrick films like A Clockwork Orange and The Shining. And while Ghesquière's designs would prove to be a lot more wearable, they would take the same shape of storied beauty.

The new Louis Vuitton collection's inspiration was luxury fashion from the 15th century to 1950, providing a framework spanning over 500 years that allowed for the most complex version yet of Ghesquière's love for bringing time periods together. There was plenty of Baroque-inspired grandeur—think ruffles like on Sophie Turner's Grammys look, but done bigger and bolder, as well as a mixture of materials that reminded of the various layers that used to be involved in daily dressing. All of this was juxtaposed with pieces that felt more modern (or even from the future), like shiny, sporty jackets and graphic tees. Together, this made a statement in two major ways: nostalgia is a treasure trove far beyond recent decades, and it's more than possible to bring elements of the past together not just to reference them, but to create something entirely new. 

As models walked in looks that mixed nostalgic craft, modern accessories, and futuristic silhouettes, the 200 characters (whose costumes reference the various eras that inspired the collection) performed a special composition by Woodkid and Bryce Dessner, entitled "Three Hundred and Twenty." The Baroque, minimalist work, which refers to the years between the various moments referenced, follows another custom soundtrack from last season, when Sophie created a special version of her song "It's Okay To Cry" for the Spring 2020 show. The disorienting yet cohesive show, which was entirely fitting for a house that has nearly 170 years of heritage yet has found its way to the center of modern hype with items like AirPods and mini bags, provided a spectacular finale to fashion month and gave the world plenty of inspiration to imagine never-before-seen ensembles by mixing current staples with past eras the world often forgets to reference.