Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture Show Examines Life, Rebirth, and Legacy
Daniel Roseberry's showing at Paris Fashion Week is the monument to craftsmanship we have come to expect.
Daniel Roseberry's Haute Couture presentations for Schiaparelli have become a quasi-fashion Super Bowl for the well-initiated. A true reinvigoration of a legendary fashion house, Roseberry has certainly fostered a reputation for the spectacular. From a week's worth of beading on a single dress to constructing realistic animal heads, the designer has displayed a readiness to test the boundaries of couture, and the Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection is yet another line that offers proof of avant-garde grandeur.
In this newest collection, Daniel Roseberry unpacks the idea of rebirth, returning to many classic house codes while continuing to imbue his surrealist touch. The designer plays with more animalistic motifs than ever before. From zebra caftans to giant phoenix wings to an entire jacket made of what appears to be quills, Roseberry's inspirations are clear. There were also several looks that introduced a new thorn-esque textile that looks as dangerous as it is spectacular.
Many of the looks, however, in true Phoenix fashion, reimagine silhouettes from the ashes of Maison Schiaparelli's past. Several looks featured impeccably crafted corsetry, lending to Schiaparelli's focus on emphasized silhouettes. Plunging necklines and pleating—longtime favorites of Roseberry—also made reappearances. Furthermore, the Schiaparelli Fall/Winter 2024 Haute Couture collection introduced new throughlines for the brand, including oversized suiting and the use of tulle in several looks. Roseberry also continued to sprinkle signature gold-plated accessories throughout the collection.
Roseberry's newest collection also embodied a bridal theme, with veils, gowns, and satin becoming stand-out additions to the Schiaparelli lookbook. The makeup was kept dewy and minimal, with clean, glowing skin as the primary focus. The jewelry was also pared-back, though several varieties of pearlescent earrings complimented the bridal imagery nicely.
The front row of the show was star-studded, featuring house muses Doja Cat and Kylie Jenner, as well as countless other famous figures and friends of the Maison. The "Say So" singer appeared in a ruffled coat and flawless Pat McGrath makeup, while Jenner opted for a pink beaded corset gown.