Maria Grazia Chiuri Celebrates Marc Bohan for Dior's Spring/Summer 2022 Collection
Dior returns to the runway with an exciting new collection.
With the rise of vintage fashion in recent years, designers across the fashion industry have taken to the archives of fashion houses to find inspiration for their latest collections. For Maria Grazia Chiuri, the long and poignant history of Maison Dior leaves ample room for creative discovery and interplay, but designer Marc Bohan's time at the helm was a particular period of interest.
In 1961, the media characterized Bohan's Slim Look collection as such: "It completely changes fashion, just as the New Look did in 1947." In creating Dior's Spring/Summer 2022 collection, Chiuri attempted the same by reimagining Bohan's work in a colorful sea of looks that combines modernized silhouettes with '60s color blocking, accentuated by the geometric artwork interpolated throughout the collection by artist Anna Paparatti.
The show, backed by a multi-colored stage, rotating disco lights, and an Italian singer painted a picture that would be most fitting in the iconic Roman nightclub The Piper Club, Rome's answer to New York City's Studio 54.
The collection deviated from Chiuri's usual aesthetic—a semi-punk, semi-bohemian-inspired collection of muted, casual pieces that rely heavily on floral motifs and minute embroidered detailing. This season, however, utilized this signature embroidery in a more subtle way as a means of giving pieces texture.
Several looks mirrored a boxer's pre-fight ensemble—baggy shorts with a visible waistband paired with a matching sports bra and jacket. Other looks were more easily connected to the '60s by their structural silhouettes and A-line cuts. Outerwear pieces adopted a slightly oversized aesthetic without sacrificing the model's figure. Overall, the show showcased Chiuri's range and her ability to adapt in a rapidly evolving post-pandemic fashion landscape where customers are always clamoring for something new and glamorous.
