Christopher Kane Finds Sensuality in the Ecological for Spring 2020

When Christopher Kane was conceptualizing his Spring 2020 collection, he looked to environmental themes, but not in the way you'd expect. Staying true to his artfully provocative nature, the Scottish designer offered his take on the constant discussion surrounding the earth with a collection he titled Ecosexual.

The term "ecosexual" is relatively new and was coined to describe the intersection between environmentalism and sex. There isn’t a specific definition, but rather, it's up for individual interpretation when someone chooses to use the identifier. It can simply mean adopting sustainable practices in your sex life, or maybe that you are sexually attracted to the Earth itself.

Kane’s brand of ecosexuality is hard to place (the jury is still out on whether he wants to actually have sex with the planet). However, an obvious connection lies between sex and nature, and it seems Kane wants to highlight the innate relationship between the two. 

The collection is classic Kane, subtly sensual with a definite streak of the irreverent. Traditionally sexy materials like leather, satin, and sheer fabrics serve to create alternative structure and movement, while the prints and patterns of wildflowers, space, and the sky put the “eco” in Ecosexual. One memorable piece is an oversized black sweatshirt which features the phrase “eco sex” underneath a picture of the Earth. “Make love with the wind” is another eco-sexy quote, printed over a cloud-covered, drop-waist dress.

Sex and desire are the driving inspirations behind Kane's brand identity. Some designs from his Fall 2018 collection, an unapologetically provocative runway romp taking inspiration from the '70s manual The Joy of Sex, made appearances at The Met Costume Institute’s “Camp: Notes on Fashion” exhibit earlier this year. Kane’s newest collection is another manifestation of desire, one perfect for a world whose relationship with the environment is in the process of major change.

Kane recently left Kering, which manages brands like YSL, Gucci, and other ubiquitous names in the fashion industry and was one of many companies that signed the Fashion Pact at this year’s G7 summit. The pact aims to keep the fashion industry conscious of its environmental impact and ultimately work to reduce it. The newly independent designer claims that his company continues to follow the strict standards of sustainability that Kering does, but it would take more investigation to learn for sure if this collection was as ecologically minded in production as it is in concept.