Fashion Week

Chanel's Fall/Winter 2022 Haute Couture Collection Embraces the Past

As a follow-up to its previous collection, Chanel continues to explore equestrianism while experimenting with some of Coco Chanel's signature motifs.

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As a continuation of Chanel's Spring/Summer 2022 Haute Couture collection, designer Virginie Viard capitalizes on the theme of experimentation by creating a collection that re-engineers some of Coco Chanel's most famous designs.

Said Viard, “In this new collection, there are suits, long dresses like Mademoiselle Chanel imagined them in the 1930s: fitted to the body even though they have strong shoulders here, and pleated dresses like the wedding dress for instance. And lace too, inlaid, reworked, not embroidered, but repainted. The palette consists of bright green, khaki, beige, pink, lots of black and silver."

Several structural elements from the collection—rounded shoulders, square silhouettes, geometric shapes, embroidered patterns, etc.—bolster that 1930s aesthetics, while also complementing the “graphic” décor of the 1970s of which the late designer Karl Lagerfeld was so fond. However, Viard has no problem deviating from the rule book. “I also like to break the graphic approach with a natural look. The clothes remain light, feminine, designed to be worn. I can't see myself doing it any other way.”

In addition to the garments, the collection's jewelry also pays tribute to the Maison's namesake. Using pieces from the anniversary high jewelry collection "1932," which pays homage to Coco Chanel's one and only "Bijoux de Diamants" collection, the necklaces are used as “celestial elements because they fit with pleats.”

Referencing the equestrian theme from last season's collection, the show featured a selection of cowboy boots—one of the biggest footwear trends this year. “These boots also echo the previous Haute Couture show that opened with Charlotte Casiraghi on horseback,” adds Virginie Viard.

As models walked the runway in the latest collection, some of Chanel's biggest celebrity faces sat in the front row, including Keira Knightley, Lucy Boynton, Maggie Gyllenhaal, and Marion Cotillard

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Chanel Fall 2022 Haute Couture

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