Brandon Maxwell Meets Structured Minimalism With Fall/Winter 2023 Collection

Photography by Mich Cardin

Brandon Maxwell debuted his Fall/Winter 2023 on a strangely warm Valentine's Day in New York City. As New York Fashion Week is quickly coming to a close, the American designer emphasized many of the themes we've seen throughout this monumental week. With an emphasis on tailoring, Brandon Maxwell's neutral collection (with a few shimmery exceptions) recalled '90s minimalism and wearable wardrobe staples. 

Though the Texas-born designer began as a stylist, he quickly gained recognition when he became Lady Gaga's go-to fashion designer in 2012. The duo continues to work together today, often opting for eccentric, bold looks. For example, Maxwell was responsible for the singer's iconic 2019 Met Gala look which included four changes that took place on the carpet. In other words, Brandon Maxwell thrives in experimentalism and spirit. 

Understated and chic, Brandon Maxwell's Fall/Winter 2023 collection broke boundaries in its own way. The designer experimented with textures, shapes, and structure rather than color and virality. The collection debuted with an all-black look which included a tailored coat, knee-length cuffed shorts, and understated, black ballet flats over knee-high black socks. These dual-fabric shorts were highlighted throughout the show, accentuating Maxwell's experimentation through detail. In one instance, these shorts are crafted in denim and styled with a black strapless peplum top. In fact, the peplum style was a major inspiration for his newest collection. Maxwell explains that he found an older bell sleeve peplum top that he believed was due for an upgrade. He explains that this collection was "about taking stock of who [he is] and asking [himself] 'what can I do better?'"

The details throughout his collection are what make it stand out amongst many of the other minimalist collections we've seen throughout this NYFW. Over-the-top jewelry is one instance of his restrained innovation. Large drop-diamond earrings are seen throughout the show, but, most of the time, the models only wear one earring. These ingenious ways Maxwell subtly generates avant-garde themes through his minimalist collection emphasize his power as a designer.