Go Behind the Scenes on Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2023 Collection
Drawing upon Hieronymus Bosch’s most famous works, the Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2023 collection inspires with a refreshed, vibrant, otherworldly tone.
Embracing a new sensuality for spring, Alexander McQueen’s creative director Sarah Burton rendered a bevy of tailored, leather, and denim looks in fresh hip-hugging (and sometimes hip-baring) silhouettes. A bumster 2.0 and even the occasional catsuit could be found among the sharp shoulders and great coats we expect from Burton. Difficult as it was to peel one’s eyes away from Naomi Campbell walking down the runway, the true delight of Burton’s latest collection was a series of enchanting embroidered looks in a buoyant blue, all inspired by the Early Netherlandish painter Hieronymus Bosch.
Fantastical nature scenes were hand-embroidered and seemingly “collaged” onto an off-the-shoulder corset-waist gown, a bodysuit shown with a matching draped leather belt and boots, and a catsuit. Each of Bosch’s elements—oversized strawberries, yellow fish, blue and pink flowers, birds, and beetles—were plucked from three of his most famous works: “The Garden of Earthly Delights,” “The Temptation of St. Anthony,” and “The Last Judgment.” Multicolored and metallic threads brought each object to life, just as Bosch had done with his paintbrush some 500 years before.
"It’s something we’ve always looked at, at McQueen: life, destruction, and beauty."
It is not the first time the house has referenced the Netherlandish master. For what ultimately would be his final collection, McQueen himself drew upon religious iconography and created gilded otherworldly prints comprised of poetic angels and Bosch demons. “When you look at those triptychs and those paintings, they’re so beautiful,” mused Burton backstage at the spring show. “But when you look very closely, there’s a very dark narrative there. It’s something we’ve always looked at, at McQueen: life, destruction, beauty.”
It was then a pleasant surprise to see another force of nature, the inimitable Lizzo, don a custom Bosch-inspired look with matching leather boots for her December 2022 People’s Choice Award performance and win. The musician shared on Instagram that her outfit, indeed, was “fit for a McQueen.”
