The Ultimate Guide to Winged Eyeliner for Hooded Eyes, According to a MUA

From monolids to downturned, almond to upturned, round to protruding, and everything in between, every eye shape brings its own unique allure to the table—and unique makeup techniques. In a world dominated by fleeting trends, endless regimens, and a constant influx of new products, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed or pressured to conform to trendy eye looks. But finding what suits you best starts with embracing your individuality. Those with hooded eyes know this struggle all too well.

Hooded eyes have lids that often conceal the crease, which is where a lot of popular makeup looks rely on making their mark. This eye shape is characterized by a bit of skin that hangs down over the eyelids. As a result, the eyelids can appear barely visible, particularly when looking straight ahead. Some are born with hooded eyes; others may notice this feature developing over time as the natural aging process and loss of skin elasticity cause the upper eyelids to droop. The eye shape often poses a unique challenge, but this challenge presents an opportunity, too: to define your own beauty rules.

Celebrity makeup artist Kirin Bhatty knows this struggle first hand, having navigated the challenges of hooded eyes firsthand. Working with the likes of Kate Upton and most recently Jenny Slate, who too have hooded eyes, the TJ Maxx and Marshalls beauty expert has made the versatility of a hooded eye quite clear. For the It Ends With Us premiere, Slate donned a beautiful gold tone look with black liner that defied the ideal that those with hooded eyes can’t play with color and liner. Upton’s look for a Sports Illustrated event went the smoky shadow route that emphasized the underpart of the eye—instead of relying on liner.

Hooded Eye Makeup Tips: Winged Eyeliner

Crafting makeup looks for hooded eyes might seem daunting at first, but Bhatty encourages creativity and experimentation. Hooded eyes are just another canvas, so ultimately it’s about rethinking techniques and tailoring them to work for you. Instead of feeling restricted by traditional product placement or application methods, Bhatty advises adopting an alternative approach that enhances your unique features. The key, she explains, is to focus on creating balance and dimension, ensuring the look resonates universally, regardless of eye structure.

A winged eyeliner look is one of the most captivating ways to define the eyes. However, for those with hooded eyes, achieving the perfect flick requires a slightly unconventional approach. “Normally, when you advise somebody on how to do a wing, the general rule is to start where the bottom of your eye connects with your lid and draw the wing upward,” explains Bhatty. “With hooded eyes, you just throw that out the window.”

Instead, Bhatty recommends flipping the script. “What you’re going to do is go from your top lash line and draw downward. Then, you’ll connect a small dot where the wing should end, sketch the shape, and fill it in,” she shares. This technique might feel counterintuitive at first, but the results speak for themselves. “It’ll feel like you’re doing the wrong thing, but you’re not because once you open those beautiful, hooded eyes up, you’ll have a perfect wing."

Hooded Eye Makeup Tips: Eyeliner

What would a winged eye be without a good eyeliner? Investing in the right eyeliners is equally imperative as the technique on hooded eyelids, says Bhatty. “Stock up on really good gel and pencil liners,” she advises. “I buy a ton because I go through them, and I like to keep them nice and emollient.” The versatility of these liners makes them essential tools for achieving a polished look.

Her go-to technique involves tightlining, a method that creates the illusion of fuller lashes and more defined eyes. “You take your lashes and fill that inner room on top with a pencil,” she explains. “What that will do, especially for a hooded eye, is make them appear whiter and brighter. It’s kind of like a hooded eye person’s best friend.” By tightlining with richly pigmented liners, you can enhance the natural shape of your eyes while maintaining a clean, effortless look.

“Both those looks are kind of from different parts of how to approach hooded eyes without having any fear with doing makeup in that way,” Bhatty tells L’OFFICIEL, on Slate and Upton's aforementioned looks. Altogether, these tips will help give anyone's makeup routine with hooded eyes a major upgrade.