L'Officiel Art

Yves Saint Laurent’s Artistic Journey of Style is Chronicled in Six Paris Museums

A new collective exhibition, Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées, celebrates 60 years of YSL's design history at the Centre Pompidou, Musée du Louvre, Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris, Musée d’Orsay, Musée National Picasso-Paris, and Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris.

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Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris. Photo: Nicolas Mathéus

Six decades ago, Yves Saint Laurent began his boundless journey of style—and in the process, he became one of the most recognized, innovative designers in fashion history. Honoring his singular vision, a new exhibition comes together across six museums in the City of Lights to discover YSL’s creative inspirations. Opening on January 29, Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées pays tribute to the influential artists that anchor the spirit of Saint Laurent’s work—from Matisse and Van Gogh to Braque and Dufy.

“For the 60th anniversary of the first Yves Saint Laurent runway show, this project links the world of YSL with other artistic realms. It shows the profound inspirational bond the couturier had with art in general, and the collections of French public museums in particular,” curator Mouna Mekouar tells L’OFFICIEL. “Conceived as an archipelago, each museum in the exhibition offers different forms of dialogue. Each venue is a complete show unto itself and as a whole, they come together in conversation and a broader view.”

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Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris. Photo: Nicolas Mathéus

Underpinning YSL’s designs is an artful homage seen through the museum collections. Each space highlights an exceptional nuance of style with modern and historical allusions. “This is the first time these venues were brought together for a single artist, especially a fashion designer. Yves Saint Laurent’s work made this possible because he was inspired by art throughout his career,” says Mekouar.  “He liked to play with different layers of influence and interpretation, weaving art references throughout his creations. This approach keeps his work relevant, contemporary, and very meaningful in the present day.”

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Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Centre Pomidou. Photo: Hélène Mauri
Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Centre Pomidou. Photo: Hélène Mauri
Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Centre Pomidou. Photo: Hélène Mauri
Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Centre Pomidou. Photo: Hélène Mauri

At the Centre Pompidou, the exhibit focuses on the designer’s relationship with 20th century artists. A key figure is Mondrian—who Saint Laurent helped popularize through his artistic stylings. His famed 1965 shift dress is shown alongside garments with patterns and tones that recall Léger and Raysse. Then at the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris, the designer’s deep embrace of color as light and movement is seen in pieces that elicit Bonnard’s gardens and Jacquet’s geometry.

At the Musée National Picasso-Paris, the artist’s impact is shown in YSL’s Diaghilev ballet and cubism inspired collections. While at the Musée d’Orsay, writer Marcel Proust is Saint Laurent’s muse. Progressive, fluid dress codes take form in grand styles for the Baroness de Rothschild, signature Le Smoking tuxes, and Belle Epoque designs for Jane Birkin. 

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Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Musée National Picasso-Paris. Photo: Nicolas Mathéus
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Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Musée d'Orsay. Photo: Nicolas Mathéus

Then at the Musée du Louvre, golden hues and jewel-infused modernism are themes among YSL’s opulent, embroidered jackets. Ornamental couture, such as the crystal-covered Hommage à ma Maison, boasts antique marbles, mirrors—and even a collection of Louis XIV’s gems—within intricate design work. Finally, at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, the designer’s personal archives discover the extensive sketches and drawings that were the foundation for all his visions. These objects of history also reveal the passion and precision of many adept hands behind-the-scenes, which gave light to the atelier’s creations.

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Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Musée du Louvre. Photo: Nicolas Mathéus

"Yves Saint Laurent’s endless fascination with the visual arts, both contemporary and historical, deeply informed and energized his work. He would say that, 'A painter is always relevant and can accompany the life of each and every one of us,’” explains Mekouar. “His interpretation and reinvention can help us reconnect with these creators of the past and see the reciprocity between art and fashion from all points of view.”

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Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris. Photo: Nicolas Mathéus
Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris. Photo: Nicolas Mathéus

Saint Laurent’s love of fashion first began during his childhood in Algeria, where he would use pieces of his mother’s clothing for paper doll couture—even staging fashion shows for siblings and friends. Over time, his stylish endeavors progressed to include designing for his mother and sisters. Then at the age of 17, he moved to Paris, where his talents quickly propelled him to work with fashion great Christian Dior. Only four years later, upon Dior’s passing, YSL ascended as the house’s creative director. At the age of 26, he founded his own eponymous label with partner Pierre Bergé. The designer dedicated his ensuing life’s work to creativity and fashion. He received great acclaim throughout his career, which continued until the end of his life in 2008.

A devoted patron and collector of art, YSL’s fashion legacy has a deeply artistic spirit. In fact, Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées is a second tribute to the designer’s artful perspective—the first being The Met’s 1983 Costume Institute exhibition, where Saint Laurent became the first living fashion designer to have a major retrospective, cementing his place in the domains of art and style. "There is no separation between art and fashion—there are only bridges," says Mekouar. "To consider artists’ bridges between mediums, we must see art without hierarchy and in dialogue with the world around us."

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Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées at the Centre Pomidou. Photo: Hélène Mauri

With his extraordinary vision and imagination, Yves Saint Laurent was far ahead of his time. His genuine, open curiosity created an infinite repertoire of ideas and inspirations for his design work. The exhibition reflects a creator who reached far beyond fashion’s traditions to connect with the greater world and its limitless possibilities. YSL’s legacy endures in his timeless, original designs and the fashion house he dreamed and realized, which remains a defining presence among top Parisian luxury houses. 

Yves Saint Laurent Aux Musées will be shown in Paris at the Centre Pompidou, the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris, the Musée du Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the Musée National Picasso-Paris, and the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris from January 29. *Individual closing dates for each venue. 

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